Somaiya College- Magazine Article #2- "Amchi Mumbai"

Leaving No Stone Unturned
To try and capture my experience in India in a simple article almost seems a bit unfair. How does one capture the essence of the most gracious people in the world? How does one describe the food from ALL corners of the country? How does one describe the rich cultural display found on virtually every street corner? How does one leave this country and remain unchanged? The answers are simple, you can’t. India is a place to be experienced, not read about.
I will begin with the people. It is said that when you make a friend in India, you make a friend for life. I agree. There are no people like the Indian people. From the moment I stepped off the plane, I have made friendships that will last a lifetime. Every door has been widely opened, every family’s arms extended, every heart welcoming of a virtual stranger. I cannot say it enough, the people are what makes this country so special.
Next, the culture of India has captured my heart. I have been fortunate, blessed even, to have been in India during the height of festival season. Of course, it has been said that the festival season in India starts in January and ends in December. From what I have seen thus far, that may indeed be the case. From the time I arrived, I have participated in festivities surrounding Independence Day, Raksha Bandhan, Krishna Janmashtami, Ganesh Chaturthi, Teacher’s Day, Dussehra, Navratri and Durga Puja, Gandhi Jayanti, Diwali, and the forthcoming Christmas holiday, just to name a few. Witnessing the festivities surrounding Ganesh Chaturthi would have to be one of the most memorable moments of my stay here. Never in my life have I witnessed such piety and devotion. From the ceremony of bringing the idol home, to the many pujas, and finally the immersions, Ganesha will always have a place in my soul and in my home.
Lastly, the places of India. No country on earth can boast such diversity, such variation, and such splendor as the states of India. I never imagined I would see so much of this country in such a short time. From the backwaters of Kerala, the pristine beaches of Goa, the deserts of Rajasthan, the Himalayas of Darjeeling, the Taj Mahal of Agra, and the sacred Ganges of Varanasi, I have left no stone unturned. Each region celebrating its own cuisine, fashion, language, and culture, all in the name of one country, India.
The astrologer I visited in Chokhi Dhani said I was lucky. I agree. I am lucky to have been a part of this great country and more specifically, this great city, Mumbai. The astrologer also said that my work here was not done, and that I would be back. He was right. I will be back. So, as I prepare to go, I know that my absence is temporary. Mumbai, with all your chaos, all your load-shedding, all your traffic, and all your glitz and glamour, you have left a permanent mark on my heart, and my soul. Amchi Mumbai.

Somaiya College- Magazine Article and Warm Regards

Foray Into The Unknown
When the news came back in March that I would be heading to India for my Fulbright exchange, I was elated. India, so exotic and wonderful. I felt lucky to have been selected. As time passed, I came to learn that I would be teaching at K.J. Somaiya College in Ghatkopar. So many questions raced through my mind. Where would I live? How would I survive so far from home? Would I “fit in” and make friends? Would the students like me? I was overwhelmed and scared. All my questions quickly found their own answers.
Almost immediately, Mrs. Shanthala Kasarkod, my exchange partner, and I began exchanging emails. In a few months, we would swap lives completely. She had as many questions and concerns as I did. We helped each other understand what to expect in our host cities and more importantly, in our host schools. We finally had the pleasure of meeting in August at the Fulbright orientation. I found a friend in Mrs. Kasarkod, and we assured each other that this would indeed be the experience of a lifetime.
As the plane touched ground in Mumbai on August 14, my heart pounded and my palms were sweating. This was the BIG moment. I was wrapped in fear. My pre-arranged ride was not available to pick me up. Panic set in. I dialed the only number I had handy and the voice on the other end would come to be one I will never forget.
Shortly thereafter, my life would change. To my rescue came my mentors, Mrs. Renu Bakshi and Mrs. Savita Moghe. Seeing their smiling faces for the first time brought a sigh of relief. This was my first introduction to K. J. Somaiya College and I had no idea that this initial meeting would define the next five months.
I was quickly whisked away into the depths of a city that would be my new home with two amazing women that would be part of my new family. Upon arriving at K.J. Somaiya College, I was overwhelmed with the Indian hospitality that makes this country so phenomenal. The staff and students at Somaiya College greeted me like a long lost friend, not a stranger they had never met. This welcome would continue without fail for the duration of my stay.
There are no words to describe the experience that I have had at Somaiya College. My colleagues are amongst the best and the brightest. Their never ending patience and laughter has comforted me every day. I know no strangers here, and cannot thank them enough. The students, in all their awe and amazement of “the American,” have taught me far more than I have taught them. They are dedicated to their education, highly respectful, talented, and are truly the future of this great country.
Sadly, my time is drawing to a close. If I could stay forever, I would. However, I cannot. But, I take with me friendships that will last a lifetime, an arsenal of twenty or so well-used Hindi words, and memories that will never be surpassed. Thank you K.J. Somaiya College for allowing me to become part of the fabric that makes you so rich. The pleasure has been all mine.

Decidedly Indian

My days here are numbered, sadly. It is no secret that I am not happy about it. It is no secret that I do not want to leave. It is also no secret that I completely love India, and specifically, Mumbai. But, my mom and my teaching contract insist that I must return, so reluctantly, I shall, but trust me, it WILL be at the last possible minute.
With that, the last week or so has been quite busy with many activities. Last Wed. evening, I rejoined with Shanthala's HUM group. The topic of discussion that evening was my adventures here in India, and also the differences in Indian/American education. Easy topics for discussion since I have a lot to say about both! I can't thank this wonderful group of ladies enough. They have absolutely showered me with kindness and hospitality since the moment I stepped off the plane. I couldn't have done it without you all. I especially thank Shyamala for getting me on my feet and showing me around, Aruna for keeping me sane and connected to Mulund, and to Grija, any chance for non-veg. is a treat! I am not sure how I can repay any of you.
Aside from the HUM meeting, Somaiya College is in full "cutural forum" mode. There are many programs in place right now to commemorate the silver anniversary of the college and to recognize outstanding students. The English department has put up several literary competitions with great success. I am pleased to have been part of the poetry and story-boarding instruction. I am hoping that my fellow Fulbright friend Taiyaba (novelist) will hold a writing workshop in the coming week.
Last Thursday, I met my fellow Fulbright friends in Juhu for a night at Pritvhi Theatre. This small, sort of experimental theatre is located in Juhu and what a total treat. The play, "Me, Kash & Cruise" was a look at Bombay, a city that continually rises from "the dead." A city that is always "dealing" with its "interesting" politics, numerous terror attacks, riots, etc. The play was timely given the events of the past few weeks. The acting was superb and after having lived here for a few months, I could relate to much of the material. We also had wonderful Italian food and sangria (DelItaliano) in Juhu, a great night in all!
What else? I broke a tooth this past weekend and had my first adventure with the Indian medical/hospital system. I must say, I was completely impressed. I was able to get into the emergency dental clinic at Hiranandani Hospital in Powai immediately. I only had to wait for a few minutes and the problem was diagnosed quite quickly. I am able to have the tooth repaired and re-capped later this week for a fraction of American prices, and frankly, I was far more impressed with the level of service. I completely understand the growing boom for these "medical vacations" people are scheduling in India. Thanks Dr. Ria for your humor, sorry I squirmed so much and thanks Nitesh for making my tooth your priority!
This week, I am attending a wedding on Tuesday. A colleague of mine from the English Dept. is getting married. I am wearing a sari, and am quite excited about it. I will have more to say about all of this in my next post. In all, I am cherishing EVERY last second I have in this amazing city.

Fulbright Family in Ahmedabad, Gujarat

Last Wednesday, November 26, I left for Gujarat to meet up with my friends and colleagues for the Fulbright conference. The purpose of our gathering was to discuss how to make India a study abroad destination for US scholars and to share our own experiences. The weekend turned out to be so much more. Just after my plane touched down in Ahmedabad, hell was broke loose in Colaba, Mumbai. Just prior to leaving for the airport, I had spent time at the USIEF office and a few other places in Colaba. It seemed that each stop I made in Colaba was later to be in the line of fire for some heinous terrorist activity. The feeling was surreal.
Unaware of the activities that were about to take place in Mumbai, the Fulbrighters reunited. We were housed at the Indian Institute of Management, one of the best universities in India, think Harvard of India. I was happy to see my teaching colleagues, some of which I had not seen since Delhi in August, save for Bree and Andrea. Also in our presence were student researchers and visiting professors from many US institutions. We all met for dinner and talked for hours about this amazing experience. It seems we all share a love for his country .
Immediately following dinner, the calls/texts started flowing. Mumbai was under attack. I, along with two other student researchers living in Mumbai, banded together and tried to make sense of it all. It was a horrible feeling. We watched in horror as all the places/people we had come to know/love were in jeopardy. The rest of that night was spent glued to the television or on the phone with friends/family. I contacted my US family, and of course, my Mumbai family as well. Thankfully, everyone was accounted for. What we didn't know was that the nightmare was just beginning.
After little sleep, we headed to the first of our Fulbright sessions. We were met by a representative from the embassy who briefed us on the attacks and what we needed to do to remain safe. We were stunned that Mumbai was still paralyzed. At this point, there were many theories, most of which pointed to the demand for American and UK citizens.
We made it through the day, mostly unable to concentrate, but happy to have a diversion as we waited, along with the rest of the world. The Fulbright sessions went late, but we were off to celebrate Thanksgiving together and we had a lot to be thankful for! The dinner was held at the open-air, rooftop restaurant Le Meredian in Ahmedabad. The place was absolutely beautiful and the food was amazing. The did have turkey for us. It was quite small and not exactly what we were used to, but it is the thought that counts. It was also the first Thanksgiving that I have had any dish made with paneer and gulab jammon....but, I think this will be a new tradition for me! After dinner, we all returned to our rooms to watch the coverage and to continue to assure our family/friends that we were safe as they celebrated Thanksgiving back home.
Friday brought little relief as the Mumbai nightmare continued. We completed our Fulbright work in the late afternoon and spent the rest of the day sightseeing. We headed to the Dada Hari Wav, or stepwells, built in 1499 by a woman of Sultan Begara's harem. After that, we headed to Sabarmati Ashram. Founded by Gandhi in 1915, he used this particular place as his headquarters. It was from here in 1930 that he set out on the famous Salt March in protest. The artifacts in the museum were fascinating and given the state of India at the moment, the message was quite necessary. We also hit the Law Garden market where everyone picked up some of the famous "mirror-work" fabric that is so well-known in Gujarat. Then back to the university to spend time socializing. The Mumbai Fulbrighters, myself included, were scheduled to head back very early in the morning. We were so unsure of what we were headed back to. It was a scary feeling. As we landed in Mumbai, we stuck together. All heading in different directions, we kept in touch until we had all reached our respective corners of the city. Mumbai felt different that morning, perhaps because it was insanely early, perhaps because there was a dark cloud overhead. I made it home and didn't stray far that day. In the evening, I went to dinner and was happy to feel secure in my neighborhood amongst my friends. Slowly, Mumbai will recover. This city has a spirit like no other!
Special thanks to Peter, Taiyaba, Karin, and Thomas for a bootleg cookie and whiskey adventure. I am glad we can put our Fulbright intelligence to good use. Taiyaba, I can't wait to read the novel, and I will be at the book release! Also to Bree, any time spent together is awesome. See you over the holiday.
I also thank Dr. Patzer, Dr. Donna, and so many of the other Fulbrighter Scholars that shared their amazing work and succcess stories. You have inspired me to keep pushing ahead.
Also, I say a prayer for Mumbai. So many people lost their lives in a completely horrific manner. This is a moment I will never forget in a country that means so much. Amen.

Backyard Playground

I am not sure why I say that any sort of travel is at a standstill when I just keep finding new places to explore. My last two adventures have pretty much taken place in my Mumbai backyard. There are amazing hillstations and beaches within a few hours drive of the city. I learned that many Mumbaikers take off for these destinations over the weekend to get away from the hectic city life.
First stop, Murud, on the Konkan Coast. This quiet fishing town was a spur of the moment choice for a getaway. Murud is about 100 or so miles south of Mumbai and traveling there is half the fun. Murud itself is a little beach village with many hotels and eateries, and little else. The goal is simply to relax. There is a fort to visit, Janjira, which sits just offshore, about 4 miles outside of town. I promised I wasn't going to visit any more forts, but I did lift my own ban just this once. Janjira was built by Siddi Jahor in 1140. The fort, or so I am told, is one of the few in the world that was never conquered. Aside from visiting the fort, the rest of the day was spent floating around the Arabian Sea and eating fresh coconut, not a bad way to spend the weekend, really!
The following weekend was spent away from the sea during a quick trip to Karnala. Again, this destination is only about an hour or so from Mumbai. Karnala is home to a bird sanctuary. I will use that term loosely as there are only about four birds there. It seems most of the birds have left due to pollution from Mumbai. I can't say I blame them. Aside from seeing these poor incarcerated birds, there is an amazing trail that leads to yet another fort if you are up for the very long climb up, up, up! I was up for the trek, but no idea exactly how high I would be going. I made it to the top, barring any fear of heights, saw yet another fort, and could not believe I actually had to climb all the way down, down, down. Ok, I am really done with forts now. There can't possibly be any left in India that I haven't seen....seriously.....!
In all, I have traveled this country extensively and was pleasantly surprised to find such adventure so close to home. Traveling to these destinations provided a further glimpse into Indian village life as we wandered in and out of many sleepy little towns. This, in my opinion, is the REAL India.

Where is the time going....?

First, I apologize for the delay. It has been awhile. Second, I need to thank everyone for the positive feedback I keep getting from this blog. What started out as a simple tool to keep my friends and family back home in touch with my adventure has become a global conversation piece. Thanks to both my neighbors/friends and colleagues at Somaiya College for their kind words! Keep reading, and I will certainly keep finding things to write about!

Aside from that, this past week has been sort of a readjustment period. The travel is at a standstill for the time being. We returned back to college last week after the Diwali break and were met with an administrative change. Dr. Verma, whom I had been working with these past few months, was replaced by a new principal, Dr. Joshi. It was odd that I was part of a welcoming committee for a change! Thursday was a holiday which means more shopping time for Renu and I. Off to Phoenix Mall we went. It wouldn't be a complete week unless I spent more money! So, off to Hidesign! More stuff that will get stuck in customs. The last batch I sent home sat at JFK for a week!

Friday was another adventure. Renu, Savita and I headed to Thane, in north Mumbai, to visit the much talked about Chokhi Dhani. This simualted Rajasthani village offered plenty of sight-seeing opportunities. There were camel rides, bullock and cart rides, puppet shows, dancers, mehendi stations, shopping stalls, and of course, food. I had to get some new Mehendi (henna) since I am addicted and we, of course, had to pile into the cart for a bullock ride. I wish I had a picture of that. Poor cows, or bulls, or whatever they were! My favorite part was the astrologer. I will keep the reading a secret, but he did say that I am a "lucky" person. After these past few months, I would have to agree! Thanks for a great time, ladies! There are no two people I would rather be stuck in a cart with!

Saturday, my colleague Lovey, invited Renu and I to an elocution competition in Colaba. The competition was sponsored by the Mumbai YMCA. What an awesome event. The students were divided into three categories, 5th & 6th grade, 7th & 8th grade, and 9th & 10th grade. Each student was called up to present their piece in front of a prestigious panel of judges ranging from Bollywood stars to Reader's Digest authors. Each student was competing for the Sam T. Berkeley trophy. The students were amazing. Each presented his/her piece with outstanding vocals and facial expressions. I was told that this particular group of students represented some of the finest schools in Mumbai. I was able to talk to some of the students after the competition and these are kids that are going places, trust me! One young boy came up to me after the competition and asked, "ma'am, how can I improve?" I was speechless. I thought he was pretty fantastic to begin with!

On Sunday, Geeta (friend and neighbor) invited me to her grandson's naming ceremony. In the Hindu religion, newborn babies aren't named until 12 days after they are born. I am told the number of days may vary depending on family, region, etc. This ceremony is called Namakaran. It starts off with a puja to bless and protect the child. Then, the babies name is whispered into his/her right ear for the first time. This ceremony is considered, you guessed it, auspicious. The event was followed by a delicious south Indian lunch, complete with banana leaf and all. Thanks to Geeta and her family for including me. I have been truly fortunate to have been a part of so much ceremony in the past three months.
Aside from all this fun, I have been busy getting the Somaiya Drama Club up and running. It is our intention to put up three one-act plays just prior to my departure. This promises to be a great night of drama, or a complete disaster. The jury is still out on that! The students have done a wonderful job of memorizing their lines. Our bigger challenges include juggling three different casts, finding places and rehearsal times that work for everyone, and securing sponsorship to help offset the cost. I told my students that if this all goes bust, I am leaving the country early. They replied with, "ma'am, if you try to leave, we will come to the airport and drag you back!" Fair enough, we are all in this together!

Sadly, my time here is coming to a close and I am having a hard time wrapping my head around that! Of course, I want to see my family and friends back home, but I am going to have an impossibly hard time leaving a place I have become SO attached to. One of my colleagues said today, "you have really become part of the fabric here." So true. But, I am not ready to think about that right now. Meanwhile, I will take advantage of EVERY minute....until next time....oh, and GO BUCKS! BEAT MICHIGAN! I am sad to be missing that!

The Heart of the Hindu World-Varanasi

Just when I thought the final leg of the so-called Amazing Race was complete, there was a late addition and a new player. The final segment included a trip to Varanasi with Bree! No rest in India as there is just too much to see. Bree and I decided that this would need to be a quick trip, and quick it was, but we had to see this amazing city before we left India. Varanasi, previously named Benares, is considered to be the oldest city in the world. It is also the holiest place in India where many Hindu pilgrims come to bathe in the Ganges River or to cremate their loved ones.

Bree and I arrived early Saturday afternoon. She had arranged for a friend of a friend from Delhi to pick us up and help us get settled. After leaving the airport, we took a tour of the city, and stopped for tea at the friend's home. We were, once again, treated with the outstanding hospitality this country continues to shower upon its guests. After tea, we found our hotel, the Puja Guest House located on the Lalita Ghat, near the Nepali temple. Varanasi sits on the western bank of the Ganges and is surrounded by many ghats, (about 80) or bathing areas. Beyond the ghats, the streets are a maze of very small alleys that are not well marked and can be completely confusing for any visitor. These alleys are bustling, full of people, livestock, small businesses, etc. and get crowded QUICKLY!

After getting settled in our room, we went to the roof top restaurant to relax and plan our course of action. From the roof, we had an excellent view of the river. To the right was the main ghat, Daasawamedh, and to our left was the main buring ghat, Manikarnika. As the sun was beginning to set, we headed off to the main ghat to see the much talked about "ganga aarti" ceremony that takes place both at sunset and sunrise. The puja is performed by seven priests (Brahma) who offer respect to the river. When we arrived, the ghat was packed with people taking part in this holy ceremony. Many people were floating lit candles and flowers into the river. The crowd was intense. Everyone was participating in the ceremony on some level. On the outskirts of the crowd was the most "colorful" group of people I have seen yet in India. It was truly a one of a kind people-watching experience.

After the ceremony, Bree and I headed up the steps and into the more public shopping/dining area. We spent some time walking around and then decided to find a restaurant that we had been told about. We hired a cycle rickshaw to take us around, as this is the most convenient method of transportation in Varanasi. Sadly, by the time we found the restaurant, it was closed. We asked our driver to take us back toward the hotel. We assumed he knew where he was going, but alas, he did not. After driving around for an hour, we were completely lost and it was LATE! After stopping to ask for directions many, many times, we finally ditched our driver and in a typically "Indian" moment, a young man offered to go completely out of his way to walk us back to the hotel. Now, Bree and I both know that this goes against every "girls out alone at night" rule, but what to do?? We were stuck. This was truly a leap of faith, and thankfully all turned out perfectly. He simply walked us to the hotel door, said "namaste" and walked off. We would have never found our way back without this person's help. Again, a true Indian hospitality moment.

The next morning, we headed back to the aforementioned restaurant for breakfast. The Bread of Life Bakery is owned by an American and offered true American pancakes with maple syrup. Most of you are saying, big deal, pancakes with syrup, right??? Trust me, big deal, and they were awesome! After breakfast, we decided to take a trip down the Ganges. Both walking and boating along the Ganges gives one a whole new perspective of India. People were bathing in the water, doing their laundry, offering blessings, herding animals for a drink/bath, and so much more! It was a lot to take in. The final leg of our boat trip brought us in front of Manikarnika, the burning ghat. This was truly a sight to behold. All around the ghat were stacks and stacks of wood. I can't even begin to describe the insanely high and vast piles. So many people were running to and fro and there were bodies shrouded in cloth and flowers waiting for cremation. Each body is dipped in the Ganges prior to cremation. It was intense to say the least. We were told that the ghat operates 24/7 for cremation purposes. Varanasi is considered an auspicious (there is that word again) place to die. According to our sources, expiring here offers "moksha," liberation from the cycle of birth and death. It is probably the one place on earth where one can witness the extremely personal acts of death and worship, all in a very public manner. To say that Varanasi is overwhelming and intense is a gross understatement.

After our boat ride, we met Bree's friend, and his nephew, once again for a final tour of the city and then off to the airport once more. On our way out of town, they insisted we stop for a quick tour of a few more temples on the outskirts of town. Bree and I finally made it to the airport, said our good-byes and headed back to our respective Indian cities. We both decided that seeing Varanasi puts India in a whole new perspecive. It was a true educational experience. And, of course, any time spent with Bree is an absolute adventure. It is a wonder the two of us get ANYTHING accomplished. Together, we are deadly. As always, a true pleasure Bree!! I can't wait until our next mission! No more monkey comments, please!

So, now I am back in Mumbai. I think I will stay put for a few weeks anyway. The next big adventure is the Fulbright conference that takes place at the end of this month in Ahmedabad, Gujarat. Together once again, the Fulbrighters. I am sure we ALL have many tales to tell!

Excuse Me While I Kiss The Sky...

The third and final chapter of Andrea and Enddy's Amazing Race begins on a quite chilly Friday morning. As I mentioned in the last blog, we had organized a "team" of people to help us reach the village of Sandakphu (on the border of India and Nepal) where we could see both Mt. Everest and Kanchenjunga in the same shot. We left at 7am and made the journey to Maneybhanjang by car. Upon arrival, we paid the entrance fee into Singalila National Park. From there, we began our climb up, up, up.....the first stop (about 1.5 miles in) was an old monastery that was worthy of a stop. The one image that will always stay with me about Darjeeling and the surrounding area is all the Tibetan prayer flags that fly high in the mountains. Just outside of the monastery, we stopped at a small "home" and had tea with some monks who were watching cricket on the television. No, I am not making this up.
After we finished tea, we went outside to meet our guide and the two drivers that would help us out for the next two days. The Singalila Ridge is impossibly steep and a Land Rover (Defender) is pretty much the only thing that can make the journey up. I am not sure I would trust the average 4-wheel drive on this range. Since Andrea and I had chosen to go all the way to Sandakphu in only two days, it was imperative that we spend a lot of our time driving as well. There was too much ground to cover in a short time. We piled into the Defender and away we went. Throughout the day, we alternated between driving and trekking. We stopped at many small villages along the way weaving in and out of Nepal and India. Sometimes we were in Nepal (for lunch and our overnight stay) and sometimes we were in India. Heck, sometimes, I was in India and Andrea was in Nepal and vice versa (clever, aren't we?) We had our passports handy as we had many check points along the way.
Throughout the day, we say many beautiful sites, prayer flags flying high, temples, monasteries, yaks, mountain goats, but mostly small village after small village in both India and Nepal. Ironically enough, the Himalayan range was all around us, but the cloud cover was so heavy that you couldn't see anything. Those Himalayas are quite elusive, I am telling you. As night was approaching we had to hurry to reach Sandakphu. No one wants to be driving up this pass after the sun goes down. It was scary enough during the day. There were hairpin turns that the Defender couldn't make in one shot. We would have to stop, back up, turn a little more, stop again, etc. One false move and over the side it was. There were some truly heart-pounding moments. So scary. Thanks SO much to our very skilled driver.
At around 6pm, we reached Sandakphu (about 11,900 feet in altitude). Sandakphu is considered to be the highest point in West Bengal, and also, according to our sources, the only place in the world to see Mt. Everest in Nepal, Kanchenjunga in Sikkim, and Chomalhari in Bhutan at the same time. Sandakphu is right on the border of India and Nepal so there is a large Indian border patrol camp there. Our "cabin" happened to be in Nepal and the family we spent the night with was also Nepali. There were some other tourists there, mostly German, who were staying in another bunk across the way. There is no heat in any of the cabins so we spent the rest of the evening in the very tiny Nepali kitchen watching "mom" and sometimes "dad" cook amazing treats for us on the coal burning "stove." Their son was home from college which really helped out with the language barrier. We also had to try Thongba, or Tibetian beer. Yeast and barley are fermented in these small wooden mug-like things for months at a time. When it is ready, millet and warm water (and some other stuff, I guess??) are added to make this sort of beer, which, in my opinion, doesn't really taste like beer, more like some sort of cider/wine....anyway, it is slurped up through a bamboo straw and took the chill off!
After dinner, we went to our freezing "bedroom" to crash. It was cold. Darn cold. I must have fallen asleep because the next thing I remember is Andrea screaming, "you can see them, you can see them!!" as she was running out the door (it was 5am btw). I jumped up out of bed and I ran out after her. Sure enough, for the first time in days, the mighty mountains showed themselves. I was STUNNED. Few moments in my life have moved me to tears, this was one of them. It was amazing. Weary trekkers spilled out of cabins wrapped in blankets. We all scrambled to climb to the top of the Sandakphu Ridge to watch the sun come up, Mt. Everest to our left, Kanchenjunga to our right. It was amazing. From one spot, we could see Nepal, India, Bhutan, and Sikkim. We were so lucky to have seen the mountain range that morning. Many people come and wait for days at a time and never catch a glimpse of the mountains at all. I am telling you, for being so massive, they hide well.
After the sun rose and we had our fill of gazing, we headed down from the hilltop and sipped yak-milk tea while "mom" made us homemade Tibetan skillet bread and porridge. After breakfast, we began our trek back down to Maneybhanjang, and ultimately Darjeeling. During the climb down, the sky was clear and the Himalayas loomed over us all day and just as we reached the bottom, the clouds started to roll in, and slowly they disappeared once more.

Trains, The Taj, and Going Sky High...

Ok, so I am not sure where I left off last on this, my own version, of the Amazing Race. I believe I was headed to the train station in Jaipur. We indeed did arrive at the station at about 1am. Let me tell you, the train station is about the most depressing place in the world at that time. It was quite a shock. That is all I will say about that. We had reserved space in a sleeper car in the first class section of the train. Don't be fooled by how wonderful that sounds. It was a rough five hours to Agra. That is all I will say about that too.
We arrived in Agra quite early in the morning. Our goal was to find a shower and a place to store our luggage since we would be leaving later that evening to catch a plane in Delhi. We found a cheap hotel with a roof top view of the Taj Mahal and got settled for the day. We ordered breakfast and sat on the rooftop. The Taj Mahal is truly a site to behold. It has to be one of the most beautiful structures I have ever seen. I wish I could say the same about Agra, the city in which it is located. We hired a cab and spent the day seeing what there was to see in Agra. We visited the "baby" Taj which was built prior to the infamous Taj. We visited the Agra Fort, quite amazing, but frankly, I am done visiting forts forever. Of course, the majority of our day was spent visiting the Taj. As I mentioned, the place is incredible, and truly worthy of a visit. The attention to detail and intricate marble work is an architectural wonder. And what a love story, no?? Our plan was to take a train from Agra to Delhi at around 8pm. We changed that, in part because we had had enough of trains from the night before, and in part because we had quickly had enough of Agra. That is all I will say about that. We were able to refund our train tickets, add a few more rupees to the pot and hire a car to Delhi. Much better. So, Denise, Andrea and I headed to our next stop.
We arrived in Delhi at 9pm and Diwali was in full swing! The streets were packed and the "crackers" were exploding all night long. It was strange being back in Delhi. Andrea and I both commented on how different we felt being there this time around. Back in August, we were completely shell-shocked and now we were "old pros!" We had already booked a hotel near the airport since we would only be in Delhi until morning. We just needed to sleep! And that we did! Early the next morning, we headed to the airport to catch our flight to Bagdogra and ultimately make it to Darjeeling by evening. We were all VERY excited to hit the mountains and have a home base for longer than a day.
We arrived in Bagdogra around noon and quickly hired a car for the looooong climb up, up, up to Darjeeling. I don't know what I was expecting, but I was hoping for more than a one-lane, pot-hole filled, cliff-hugging trek upwards. There is only one road to Darjeeling and it is in dire need of repair. As we climbed, we passed many a tea plantation and small village after small village. The people in the villages spoke with a different accent than we were used to hearing and also started to look more Nepali in nature. It was also getting colder by the minute, I mean like hat and gloves cold. We weren't ready for that! It was also impossible, due to cloud cover, to see the Himalayas. Those Himalayas, for being so large, are quite elusive. I will explain more about that later! As we inched closer to Darjeeling, I started to thoroughly appreciate this part of India. The town, city really, appears to be pasted to the side of a mountain. We were high above the trees with our heads in the clouds for real!! It was absolutely unique in nature to anything I have seen in India thus far! After two, yes TWO flat tires, we finally made it the hill station of Darjeeling by nightfall. Thank goodness, because I wasn't trying to make that drive in the dark!
We found our hotel and got settled. Our first priority was food and warm clothes! As we ate, we were talking about what we wanted to accomplish during our stay in Darjeeling. Everyone wanted a home base for a few days, but we also wanted to trek around in the mountains. It would be a shame to be so close to two of the three highest peaks in the world and not see them in one shot! On morning one, we set out to find a tour group to make this happen. We also hired a car to check out all the sites of Darjeeling, most famous are the Buddhist gompas (monasteries) that dot the region. We also vistied the Tibetan Refugee center and drank a lot, I mean A LOT, of tea. It is Darjeeling after all! We also found a tour outfit to set us up with our trek. I had no idea what I was in for, but it would turn out to be the experience of a lifetime.....! Until next time, Enddy, Denise, and Andrea's Amazing Race continues....

Twilight Zone or Rajasthan....You Decide!

Andrea, Denise (her sister), and I left Mumbai Friday afternoon and headed to Jaipur in Rajasthan (north India). After a three hour delay, we finally touched down about 9pm. We decided to go ahead a hire a car to make the three hour drive to Pushkar. The road was empty, save for a few large trucks, and it was a little bit chilly outside, which marks the first time I have been remotely cold since I arrived in India, unless you count the shower which is NEVER hot. Anyway, after passing through Anjar we started to wind up into the hills, Nag Pahar (Snake Mountain) to be exact. As we approached the town of Pushkar around midnight, we were met with a barricade and a couple of random young men. Apparently Pushkar was "closed!" Huh?? But alas, 15 rupees later and we "got in!" Go figure. It just got more bizarre as we went. I will try my best to relay this experience.
Let me start with a little history. Ok, so here is what I do know..... according to Hindu mythology, Brahma dropped a lotus flower and the town of Pushkar floated to the surface. Pushkar is a popular Hindu pilgrimage location. The town is home to one of the few Brahma temples in the world. The town surrounds a small "magical" lake on the edge of the desert. There is no booze, meat, eggs, or kissing allowed, though I did see someone drinking a beer. That is the backstory. In my opinion, there is no other place like it on earth. Back to my adventure....
We had used our trusty "Lonely Planet" guide to call some hotels from the road. We had secured a room at the ever-famous Pink Floyd Cafe & Hotel (yes, each room is named after a different album, "Dark Side of the Moon" for us, please) and also at the Bharatpur Palace. Upon arrival, we decided that Pink Floyd was too far away and found the "Palace." Our room was on the roof (really, it was, and looked somewhat like an orphanage with metal beds lined up along the wall) overlooking the lake and the ghats. There was also a temple next door and it seemed that the Hare Krishnas were celebrating all night. We crashed, they didn't.
As we woke the next morning, we were lured out on the roof by music. What we saw was intense. The entire lake is surrounded by small temple-like buildings and there were so many people on the ghats, bathing in the lake water, cows meandering around, and people just streaming to this lake in mass. I cannot do this site justice, I really can't. You had to see it. It was truly the first time I felt like I was in some sort of National Geographic special.
We got dressed and headed out to eat. We found an amzing little joint, only three tables, and had the best chai and sugar-lemon pancakes I have ever tasted. From there, we just roamed. The whole place was SO intense. There were many "babas" or sort of holy men walking around with dread locks, women with very large nose piercings, young children with kohl rimmed eyes (not sure the significance of that), snake charmers (yep, a cobra), the most sacred cows that I have seen in one place, and a handful of Europeans. I found the whole thing so completely overwhelming that I spent the rest of the day shopping for the most amazing silver jewelry ever. We ended up staying in Pushkar again that night. The aura there was just too surreal to leave.
Reluctantly, we got up super-early the next morning and had to leave. We had hired a car the night before and decided to head to Bundi. Collectively, we thought we would head to a non-tourist town to see another side of India. Bundi is a small town with a large castle looming just above on the side of a mountain. We arrived about 1pm and found a haveli, or guesthouse, near the town center. A haveli is a lot like staying at a friend's house as you are in constant contact with the family. We spent the rest of the day exploring. During the late afternoon, we decided to make the trek up to the palace to explore. The palace is overrun with monkeys, so we were advised to take a stick to sort of shew them away....uh ok....oh, and we were advised to be back before the sun went down as the sky aroubd the palace would fill with bats.....uh ok, again! Sure enough, we were outnumbered by monkeys 20 to 1, especially by one very large monkey who would not let us come back down the trail....and it was getting dark, and the bats were indeed flooding the sky. National Geographic moment #2. We did make it down without any sort of physical injury, but I am still a little mentally scarred by the monkey conspiracy that I am certain was brewing.
The next morning (Monday) we left Bundi and headed to Jaipur. We decided to take the bus instead of hiring a car. We made it to the bus station and hopped on for the ride of our lives. There aren't so many American girls on a rural Indian bus, fyi. It was an adventure, but what a way to experience India. National Geographic moment #3....as we rolled through the desert, we saw camels pulling carts, elephants pulling carts, goat herders, children strapped to their mother's backs as oxen were being tended to. Each mile told a story all it's own. I had to keep reminding myself that I wasn't watching a television show, nor was I on some simulated Disneyland ride. This was real India, real life, and I was watching it all around me. So intense.
We finally pulled in Jaipur, or the "pink city" as it is known, and spent the rest of the day touring around there. It is now midnight and we are leaving to catch the 2am overnight train to Agra to see the Taj Mahal at last. Today is also the first day of Diwali, or the festival of lights. The city sparkles and fireworks are exploding all around us. The embassy has warned us to use precaution while traveling as this is a volatile time. With that, Happy Diwali to all....I will update you on the next leg of this amazing journey!

Where India Exhales....Kerala!

After barely recovering from the Goa trip, I picked up Sharon, my asst. principal from Walnut Ridge and off we went to the beautiful state of Kerala, Ft. Cochin, to be exact. Kerala is where India exhales, I have decided. After living in Mumbai these past few months, I have gotten used to the insane traffic, dust, smog, countless running dogs, and people stacked on top of people....to head to Kerala, one trades the dogs for goats, cars for boats, smog for vast palm groves, and enjoys a little room to breathe! Much like Goa, Kerala reflects the architecture of by-gone settlers, in this case, Dutch, Jewish, Chinese, as well as Portuguese. We stayed primarily in Ft. Cochi in central Kerala.
Day one, we hired a rikshaw and saw all the various temples and churches. We also visited the Dutch Palace, Jewish and Dutch burial sites, saw the Chinese Fishing Nets, shopped and ate some amazing seafood.
On day two, we had to venture about an hour away to cruise along Kerala's famous backwaters, and I am SO glad we did. We boarded a houseboat with our new friends from Israel, Italy and France. When I say houseboat, I mean a wooden gondola that is covered in a sort of wicker thatch.....quite rustic and surprisingly comfortable. The boat was "sailed" using very long poles by one man in the front and one in the back, think Venice gondolas! Kerala is called the "Venice of India," a well-deserved name! We started our cruise in the morning, lazily roaming through the palm thickets, watching for the beautiful Kingfisher bird, and trying to name the various exotic trees and flowers. Our first stop was on a little island where they were crushing mussel shells to make lime powder, later to be used in cement, etc. Our second stop was on another little island to watch a rope making demonstration. The laborers were using coconut husks and weaving them into rope to be used for boats and scaffolding. Lunch was a true south Indian treat. Our meal was served on a banana leaf, quite traditional, and included several samples of Kerala's famous tastes, mostly banana, coconut and rice. Too hot for Sharon, but just hot enough for me! The rest of the six-hour cruise was spent drifiting along the backwaters chatting with our new-found friends and trying not to fall into a most soothing sleep!
Day three was spent in the spa for the ever-famous Kerala massage, and also some last minute shopping. For me, it was spices. We visited several spice markets and I became addicted to saffron tea! I also now realize why spices are so expensive after watching each ginger root being carefully, methodically inspected by hand, and I have a better idea of how the pepper makes in all the way across the world into the shaker! It was all really interesting, and the smells in the market were overwhelming!
On the evening of day three we headed back to Mumbai. Upon arrival, we learned that the city had been under a curfew for most of the three days we were gone. There was some political tension that was causing quite a dangerous scene (not terrorist in nature, thankfully) around the city. Many buses were being pelted with rocks and fires were started. Schools were closed and the city was paralyzed......and I was obliviously floating along the backwaters.....probably best I guess. The politician who was responsible for this "unrest" was arrested, so the city appears to be back to normal, I hope...!
Tonight Sharon is leaving from the international airport as Andrea will be arriving at the domestic airport. Tomorrow, Andrea (from Calcutta), her sister and I will be heading to Rajasthan and onwards to Darjeeling. Of course, we will see the Taj Mahal (finally) and hope to trek in Darjeeling. Mt. Everest, here I come.....HA! Hey, if you are gonna dream, dream big!
Meanwhile, time is rolling along here and I am not happy about it! I have so fallen in love with India. I am already trying to figure out how to extend my stay or find time to return. The whole of Mumbai is gearing up for Diwali, the festival of lights. Everyone is buying gifts, hanging lights, filling oil lamps and baking sweets. It reminds me of Christmas time, except it is 5 million degrees here! So, with that I am off to pack for yet another amazing adventure. Somedays, I wonder whose life I am living right now. I am truly blessed. Happy Diwali to all and I will report later from Rajasthan!

Go, Go, Goa....Blame It On the Feni

Notice! This may be my last blog! I am going to sell my house, car, computer, everything, except most of my shoes, oh, and my big rings too, and live in a beach hut in GOA! So, if I do not return home in December, don't worry, just come and join me! That pretty much sums up my weekend in Goa!
How do I even begin to describe Goa?? Goa is India meets Portugal, which makes sense as it was originally a Portuguese settlement. The population there is largely Christian, and that shows in all the beatifully decorated crosses that fill every nook and cranny of the entire area. The beaches are wide and full of little bars, cafes, etc., and we managed to find them all! The weekend with Bree started by checking into our amazing hotel/resort, Neelam's The Grand. We then had to find out what this "feni" was all about. We headed out to the closest hot spot to see what we could find and we found quite a lot....if I remember correctly! Feni is the local Goan drink. It is distilled several months a year with cashews and the rest of the time with coconut. It is a clear liquor and it is STRONG. We dubbed our vacation in terms of BF or AF, meaning before feni, or after feni....you get the picture! At the first stop we pulled up to a table, ordered this much talked about feni and then we heard..."are you ladies sure you are ready for that?" (British accent) We clearly weren't ready, but we made instant friends with some lovely "mates" from Liverpool. We were then joined by several people from Scotland, and an Indian from London....and then some more people from a small town in England....it was all quite a global start to the weekend. We then went with all our new found friends to enjoy the nightlife at Tito's/Mambo's. We ended up dancing then entire night away and met still some more people from India, natives of Goa back for a visit, to be exact. And so the weekend went......
Wherever Bree and I went, we had friends. We especially thank our Goan friends from Pune for showing us ALL the nooks and crannies and for making sure we had a blast. We trekked along the beach, shopped, took a ferry ride, danced our hearts out, ate SO much amazing food, masala prawns, kingfish, pomfret....and LAUGHED every minute......incredible....! It was truly an amazing adventure and a much needed break from these big cities of Mumbai and Delhi.
It was also during this weekend break that I truly fell in love with India. The Fulbright folks told us we would be overwhelmed first, be homesick second, be frustrated third, and then fall in love just as it was all going to end, and they were right. I do love this country and I know I will be back again, no doubt. It is my hope that everyone takes the time to visit India, if nothing else, to experience the people. I can't say enough about Indian hospitality.
A special thanks to Bree who made this weekend one of the most memorable of my lifetime. Yes, to the second weekend in November to where ever you want to travel, and yes to next summer, I am down. You are an amazing person, and thanks for making me laugh. I needed it.
Also special thanks to the "Brits," Sam, John and Jordan, too funny, thanks for teaching me the difference between "a mate" and "a bloke," I think I have it now, and sorry about your horrible cab experience.
Thanks to Deep, we know never to put three on a scooter now unless we have bribe money. Those of you reading can put this story together. Thankfully, it ended with just a little money out of pocket....!
My warmest heartfelt thanks, and I CANNOT thank you enough, to our best friends, new "brothers", and fantastic tour guides....you truly spoiled us....Francis, Chris, Alvin, and Sourabh....we will all meet again! Thanks for the one million laughs and stories that I will cherish forever.
So, off to another adventure. I pick up Sharon, my asst. principal, at the airport tonight, show her around Mumbai, funny, how I am the expert now, go figure. She and I will then head to Cochin, Kerala on Sunday. Until next time...take care, and stay away from the FENI! You've been warned.

Dussehra and Two-Month Indiaversary

Today is, yep, you guessed it, another holiday in India. Another day off for me, and also the eve of my two-month Indiaversary, as I am calling it! Today is Dussehra, or "day 10," following the nine-night festival of Navratri. Dussehra falls on the 10th day of the waxing moon during this Hindu month of Ashvin. According to legend, after praying to Durga (warrior goddess) for 9 days, Rama then killed the 10-headed demon Ravana on this, the 10th day. This is the ultimate celebration for the triumph of good over evil. From what I understand, the festival is celebrated all over India, but is the most important festival for the Bengalis. I am also told that different families celebrate this day differently, pujas, some fast, some feast, etc. My neighborhood is decorated in a festive manner. There are puja garlands/flowers EVERYWHERE! They are on rikshaws, cars, motorcyles, and around doorways. As you know, the puja flowers are one of my favorite sights in India. I even bought several garlands because, well, because I just love them!
I, however, think I am going to celebrate Dussehra with a nap, as I haven't been sleeping at all the past two nights...thank you very much malaria prevention meds! Perhaps when I awake, I will explore!
Today also marks the eve of my leaving C-bus two months ago. In some ways, it seems like yesterday, in other ways, it seems like years ago! I, of course, am going to celebrate this milestone in Goa this weekend with Bree. There will be much more about that later. During my two-month stay, I have learned a lot, seem a lot and grown a lot. I have also picked up a few sayings along the way......
"They say"..................................................."We say"
What is your good name? ......................What is your name?
What is your program? ..........................What is your schedule?
Scheme/offer ..........................................Discount or special financing
That's what!............................................. That's right or No way!
It is there ..............................................We have that to offer or it is available.
Take, Have, Eat, Come, Go (one word commands).... We tend to use the whole sentence, mostly
Tell me.................................................... What's up or what is the news?
Do the needful........................................ Take care of any outstanding task
Chalo (Hindi).......................................... Let's go or let's leave
Chai for ALL tea ....................................We recognize tea and chai differently
Make a move .........................................Let's go or let's leave
Namaste (has several purposes)......... Hello, greetings (for the most part)
How are you finding...?.......................... How do you like...??
And so many more that escape me right now....I have also picked up on the ever-present hand "flip," sort of a flat plam, splayed figure gesture, used to sort of make a point, or to indicate finality, in a sense.....
In all, an incredible two months thus far. I CANNOT say enough about the warmth of the Indian people and their hospitality. I am, on a daily basis, thankful for the kindness of friends, and strangers, that have made this journey a wonderful experience. And on that note, we start month three!

The Incredible Indian Food....

I stopped by McDonald's after leaving the gym today, I know, what is the point, right?? I have only been to McD's twice since my arrival here, and today, I just wanted something quick. That aside, it got me thinking about the food in India. I have mentioned that I love it, maybe mentioned a dish or two, but I really haven't spent any time talking about it. McDonald's is, after all, McDonald's, anywhere you go in the world. In India, however, there are no beef burgers, obviously, but there are chicken sandwiches, even the Big Mac is chicken based, veggie burgers, and McAloo Tikki burgers, which is really a potato patty on a bun dressed like a burger. And, the fountain diet Coke NEVER works....sigh...that is one thing I def. miss about home, fountain diet coke....! Anyway, back to the food. Indians are fond of spice, the more spice the better, as many of you know already. Even at McD's they have "Indianized" the food. The chicken sandwich doesn't have plain 'ol American mayo, they have "kicked it up a notch" with a sort of minty/coriander mayo...takes a second to register in the mouth, but it really is quite tasty....even the balsalmic salad dressing I found at the grocery store was extra spicy, I mean, hot! I wasn't expecting that on the first bite.
As I have metioned before, one of the questions I get most often is "how are you managing your food?" Some people are concerned that I don't cook at all, which I really don't, and others are more concerned with the level of spice. I also get asked a lot about what I eat and when. To not have eaten isn't an option either.
Ok, too the point. When I first arrived here, I kinda went nuts over the food. I absolutely love Indian food and I was trying to taste everything all at once. Then, I realized I had 4+ months to taste it all, so I needed to slow down....as Indian food is quite high in calories. It tastes so darn good because it is full of ghee (clarified butter) and oil. And wouldn't you know, all the food looks so innocent with the bright colors and veggies galore....but no, not the case. The vast majority of the restaurants here are vegetarian. Every restaurant you see will have that quite clearly stated on the sign outside, "veg. or non-veg" as the case may be. I am non-veg, but most of the people I spend time with are veg. I have eaten some meat here, not much, with Renu, she is Punjabi, which I have learned sort of equates with non-veg. There seems to be more more of a non-veg trend in the north, but that is not the rule completely. My neighbor, Aruna, also ordered me some AMAZING fish from a "joint" the other night. I am not sure what kind of fish, but it was darn hot! And tasty.
For the most part, I eat a lot of dosas, which are sort of an Indian burrito. The outer "shell" is made of a rice paste and is poured onto a skillet. They are paper thin, like a crepe, and have a variety of fillings, mostly masala (which I learned simply means spice) potato, onion, etc. There truly are 100 kinds of dosas. They are seen as more of a snack or an appetizer. You tear them apart with your fingers and dip them in chutney (delish), if you so choose. For the main meal, there are 100 different varieties of "gravy." Some of my favorites are palak (spinach)paneer, paneer laseez, mutter (peas) paneer. These are mostly vegetable gravy (some do have chicken or mutton) with paneer (which is cheese, sort of in blocks and has a consistency like ricotta) and heavy, heavy on the masala! The gravies are eaten with warm roti, chappatis, or naan (all Indian breads), again, tearing the bread apart and dipping. Maybe after all that is consumed, some rice would be ordered, dal rice is common (with lentils), biryani rice (with veggies mixed in), curd rice (with plain yogurt) and many, many more. For dessert, some gulab jamon (kind of like doughnut holes soaked in syrup) kulfi, (amazing indian ice-cream) or kulfi falooda (ice-cream with vermicelli noodles, no, really, and sometimes rose syrup)! There are also many types of Indian "fast-food," that are sold everywhere by street vendors, at the movies, etc. Pav bhaji is sort of an Indian staple. It is tomato based, and has finely, finely chopped onions, capsicum, cauliflower, and some other veggies sort of simmered together with again, a whole lot of masala, and served on warm buns, think "sloppy joe!" It is also LOADED with butter. Also, samosas (deep fried dough filled with potatoes), and pani puri, another type of bread filled with potatoes, garbanzo beans, onions, etc. They are bite-sized and you "pop" the whole thing in your mouth. Mine always break and fall apart everywhere, go figure.
Since coming to India, I have a new appreciation for garbanzo beans, they aren't just for hummus turns out, capsicum (I didn't even know what that was), little tiny pear-shaped fruits called naka, and a few other things. I have never eaten so many vegetables in my life. So, as you can see, one has to choose one's meals wisely. I am looking forward to heading south, as I hear the foods are much different! It is my goal to learn to make one or two, maybe three true Indian dishes before I leave so I can entertain my friends/family back home....In the meantime, yes, my Indian friends, I can handle the spice. I know you are always shocked, but this American can take it! And I see what you mean now, American food, for the most part, is really bland....and I am sorry you have to endure that when you go abroad. But, aren't we at least a little better than the UK??

Happy Birthday Gandhi and 6 Week Check-In

Today, the country of India is celebrating Gandhi's birthday as a national holiday. All schools and government agencies were closed, so I took advantage of the day off. Most of you know, I had a little bit of a trying week. I remember during the Fulbright orientation that they mentioned these sort of phases an exchangee goes through, kind of like any new relationship....stage one, get to know India, stage two, become completely overwhelmed by India, phase three, well, I can't remember them all....but you get the idea...anyway, it seems just as I get completely adjusted, it will be time to leave. At any rate, India and I had a few getting to know each other issues this week, but we seem to be ok now. We aren't breaking up just yet. More importantly, as any good American woman, or any other nationality for that matter, I decided to soothe myself with another trip to Hakim's Aalim for a rock star haircut. That is how I spent Gandhi's Birthday....! Travel tip #427-don't take a rikshaw all the way to Bandra from Mulund, geez...I need a full body massage, a chiropractor, and a putty knife to scrape the dust off....I will spring for a cab in he future and you all should do the same if you are ever in that situation, fyi.
Let's see, what else? Navratri is still in full swing. I haven't seen too much "action" yet, but as I was leaving my building today, I was informed that we will be having a little throw down on Saturday night right here at the building. That will be awesome, sort of like my own Navratri party. I was told to wear a sari...I don't think that will happen, though I will be in a sari before I leave, no worries, and yes, there will be pictures! I am truly captivated by the sari. It has to be one of the most sexy, yet sophisticated garments in the world. It is amazing what you can do with 6 meters (or is it yards?? No one really understands metrics) of beautifully woven, brightly colored fabric. There is an art to wrapping a sari well and different regions wrap them differently. That is just an aside.
Bree and I finalized out travel plans for Goa. We will be leaving next Friday, the 10th. I am looking forward to heading a little more south in India and soaking up some rays on the beach. Just after I return from Goa, Sharon, my asst. principal, and friend, arrives from the US. I will show her around Mumbai and then I think she and I will head even further south to Cochin in Kerala. Kerala is really a "must see" state in India. It is the more lush, tropical region of the country and is known for it's amazing backwaters. I have also come to learn that the food in southern India is incredible, a little more of a rice base and a lot more bananas and coconut. Just after that, I head north with Andrea.....so, at week six, it appears that weeks 7, 8 and 9 will be flying by.
In all, everything is going well. I have also, for those of you that know me well, affirmed my place as an expert shopper here in Mumbai. That was confirmed tonight when Aruna, my neighbor, called to ask me where a certain shopping center was in the Colaba area. What can I say, a reputation is a reputation. I have gone international!
More to come later. Please enjoy fall for me and if anyone feels inclined, head over to my house and rake some leaves....Veach would appreciate that! Peace.
One last mention, please check out my friend Andrea's website at www.andreacermanski.com, she is an amzing artist and everyone should see her work! Yes, a plug, and I need a painting for over my bed Ange! Just sayin'!

Gearing up for Navratri and Durga Puja

Ok, so yes, I finally added a picture to my blog...I know, one picture?? Look, I am trying ok? I am not exactly dripping in tech. skills and I have had some internet issues, so hang in there. Maybe, I will surprise you with some more pictures this week....be patient. Thank you.
First of all, a special thanks to Aruna for helping get the internet data card squared away. You are wonderful and I so appreciate ALL your help. Because of you, I know can take my internet anywhere!
In other news, Ganesha has been over for about 2 weeks now, but fear not, there is never much time to rest before another festival is on the horizon. This week is full of reasons to celebrate. First, we have the beginning of Navratri on the 30th. Navratri, or "nine nights" is a countdown to Dussehra, "the tenth day," on which Lord Rama killed the demon Ravana. The celebration consists of nine nights of dancing, all night long, I am told. It is customary for couples to hold decorated batons while they are dancing. In some cases, it is one of the few times that young girls and boys are allowed to mix unsupervised by their parents.
During Navratri, Durga Puja begins. What Ganesha is to Mumbai, Durga is to Kolkata (Calcutta). Durga, the warrior goddess, dressed in red, and mounted on a lion, signifies the victory of good over evil. Many idols will be placed around the city for various puja events. I have already seen many of them in the preparation stages. I am told the next "nine nights" are going to be a little nuts around here!
This week also kicks off exams at Somaiya College, Thursday, October 2, is Gandhi's birthday, a country-wide holiday, and Friday is Eid, an Islamic holiday that marks the end of Ramzan (or Ramadan) the month of fasting. As you can see, India is BUSY! All of this, of course, leading up to Diwali (later in October). I have already bought myself a Diwali present. Isn't amazing how quickly I adapt?? Any reason to buy myself a present...any reason at all....!
Other than all of this celebrating, not much else is going on. I am planning a trip to Goa with Breanna, a Fulbrighter in Delhi. We are going on October 10th. We are both excited. Goa appears to be the sort-of Key West of India. There are lovely beaches and nightlife if you are looking for that sort of thing. Goa was a big hippie mecca during the 60's and there is still quite a counter-culture there. It is also a popular spot for an Indian getaway. Details to follow on this adventure.....
That is the current update. I am working on the picture "thing," and I am happy to hear the Buckeyes looked a little better this week. Until next time....chalo!

Mother Mary, Trains, and the American Embassy

You know you have been in India too long when the fingertips of your right hand are curry stained and your head is ever so slightly starting to nod side to side for yes, versus up and down....the side to side nod is almost a necessity lest everyone think you are saying no all the time.
Aside from those slight observations, I apologize for the delay in blog update. I have been very busy and I will tell you all about it! This past weekend started off like any other thus far, but ended with a true Indian adventure. On Sat. I left college early with Renu, (surprise, surprise) to head back to Bandra for the final day of the Mount Mary Festival. I had gone the week before with Andrea and it was a lovely, peaceful, not so very crowded experience, not this time, however. As soon as Renu and I made our way into Bandra, I knew it wasn't going to be good. I had never seen so many people in my life. The place was jam packed with people. Literally, there was a line over half a mile long and 10 people wide to get into this church. People were carrying all sorts of "offerings" to leave for Mother Mary, flowers, candles, wax statues, you name it. It was insane, people pushing and shoving just to get inside. Once inside, there were nuns holding huge plastic tubs to collect all the offerings. I am not sure just how many Mother Mary got, but it was something to see. Renu said it best when she said, "so many Christians today, there weren't this many in Mumbai yesterday??! After that nightmare, we went to eat on Hill Rd. in Bandra and met up with Annie, Renu's amazing daughter. We all then went to see "Rock On," the Bollywood rock and roll movie....not bad considering I didn't understand anything. The music was great, but I can't sing along.
On Sunday, I went to the gym per usual and my friend Vasanti was there. She suggested we finish our "gym program" (love the lingo here) and have a true Indian adventure. I was game. She said first stop Sion, but we had to take the TRAIN! Now, up to this point, no one has allowed me to go on the train. Most people I spend time with are not train-goers. Allegedly, you are not a true "Indian" until you navigate the train system, so why not. We bought our tickets and stood in line for the "ladies" coach. Ladies only in this car. I see why now. The crowd of ladies behind me was starting to grow and I could see Vasanti getting nervous. She kept saying, if we don't make it on, we will just wait for the next train. I was like, uh, ok...why wouldn't we get on? The train pulls up and holy crap, the pushing, scratching, shoving, climbing, I don't even know what else, began before the train even stopped. I had NEVER in my entire life fought so hard to get into one place. It was absolutely insane. As the train starts to pull away, people are hanging on for life, just trying to find a place to stand and breathe. There was no room. I was like, no way, this isn't for me! We, by the grace of God, made it to Sion.....Sion is in the heart of the Dharavi slum, the largest slum in Asia. Up and down the streets of Sion are leather stores, one after another...little bitty shops that sell mostly the same thing. Most all of the leather work comes directly out of the slum and is shipped all over the world. We stopped in a few shops. At the last shop, I tried on a coat or two, (c'mon, you would have too) and I didn't see anything that I loved....alas, don't see something you like, well then you can have something custom made right there in a day! All for $37, yep I said thirty-seven dollars US, I designed my own leather jacket tailored to fit, sketched it out, took pieces parts from other jackets until I had it just right! I couldn't believe it. The jacket is great, but the sport of it was the real thrill!
After leaving Sion, we headed to Mantunga for some Pav Bhaji, this week's favorite food, and then back on the train to Coloba. This time, the train was empty! Thankjesus......and also the whole way back home, empty train. It was an adventure to say the least! It is a cheap way to travel, but I am not sure at what cost really?? It is moments like the Mount Mary Fest. and the train that I realize how big this city is. There are just people stacked and stacked and stacked on top of each other all the time.
Monday night, I went to the American Embassy for a cocktail "thing." The embassy is located in the Breach Candy area of Mumbai, a swanky neighborhood near the Haji Ali temple. The Cadbury family (yes, the "thanks Easter Bunny" egg people) have a high rise there. The embassy itself sort of looks like a metal temple-thing from the road, but once inside the many, many layers, it is a beautiful sort of colonial-type mansion. I took Renu (surprise, surprise) with me. We had drinks and appetizers with the General Consulate and his wife, many other cultural affairs people, some vistitng professors and some other Fulbrighters there for educational work, not teachers, more like students so to speak. It was great. I met some awesome people and was invited back, we all were, for an "American" style bbq this Saturday. I think I just may go. It isn't often one "hangs out" at the embassy, I suppose. I will spend all your tax dollars wisely folks.
In all, everything is moving along in Mumbai. Time is going very quickly now. It is still dang hot, I am done with that really and October is going to be hotter still.....grrrr......! So, with a slight nod of my head side to side...I will "make a move" (more great lingo)!

Auspicious India and other Nonsense...

What is more fun than riding in a rikshaw during a monsoon?? Nothing folks, absolutely nothing....Good Lord, I am drowning over here. When I first arrived, I thought monsoon season, what is the big deal?? It barely rained, maybe once a day for about 15 minutes....no worse than spring in Ohio, or any season in Ohio, for the matter....! Ok, now I get it. The monsoon is coming to a close and is clearly making up for lost time. The rain is one thing, but the mold combined with pollution is another. I swear everything I own is moldly and nothing is really ever dry. I can't stand to be DAMP, hate it....grrr....ok, just a few more weeks and I am told it is over. But, then make way for October heat. Just as I am craving crisp fall nights, I am gearing up for more heat. At least half of October will be spent north and in the Himalayas. Sigh, ah, India....
Also worth noting is the word "auspicious." I have heard that word more in a month than I have heard in my whole life. It seems everything in India is auspicious. I knew what the word meant, but I still looked it up again to make sure I had it right....to promise success, favored by fortune, opportune....etc. For example, married women in Maharastra (the state where Mumbai is located, but you should all know that by now!) wear emerald green glass bangles because they are auspicious. However, Bengali women on the other side of the country (Calcutta area) wear red and white glass bangles because that is auspicious to them. Peacocks, the country bird, are auspicious. Flowers are auspicious, very auspicious. One of the things I have grown to love about India are the amazing flower garlands that can be purchased on ANY street corner stand. They are amazing garlands strewn with marigolds, jasmine (pronounced jazmeen here) Gerber daisies, and other greenery. The garlands hang EVERYWHERE, over doorways, around religious idols, on trucks, cars, rikshaws and even COWS. Yes, the cows are sometimes delightfully decorated. Of course, all of this to ensure good fortune. Diamonds are auspicious, so I should probably get some more, huh? I will work on that....! Random days on the calendar can be auspicious as well, but you never seem to know which ones until the day has started, well, at least I don't. For example, one might be told not to do any sort of business transaction on a certain day because it is unlucky, or may be told to purchase something on a different day because it is lucky. This can often be frustrating for foreign business people who are trying to close a deal. They may have to wait until all the "stars" are aligned to get a signature! I often ask, how can SO many things be SO auspicious? No one seems to know. I just roll with it....and continue to admire the flower garlands. Those alone will stick in my mind long after I leave here.
What else....I am starting a drama club. We had our first meeting yesterday. There were about 50 people. I was thrilled, but that is a lot of people to consider when choosing a script. I can't possibly use everyone, so I need to figure all this out quickly. My goal is to put up a show right before I leave here and hopefully the club will continue to be in place after I leave. I am searching high and low for a good script, but not coming up with much. I will persevere....until next time, I hope everyone is great and that my peeps in C-bus have their power back....yikes, what a nightmare!

Painting the town hot PINK! (The longest blog ever!)

Uh, I don't even no where to begin....most of you know that my friend Andrea flew in from Calcutta this weekend. (She is a also a Fulbright Scholar, from Santa Fe, NM). She and I met in DC at orientation and have kept in touch all along. Anyway, she flew in Friday night and we hit the ground running first thing Sat. morning.
Early Sat. morning we had to be at my college for a literary presentation. She also met some of my colleagues and saw Somaiya college. I had hired a car and driver for the day, so right after the presentation we headed downtown to the Colaba Causeway area. On the way, we asked the driver to stop at Haji Ali, a mosque that sits on a little island just outside of Worli (a suburb near downtown). The masjid, or mosque, sits off the coast and can only be reached by a very long walkway during low tide. Haji Ali was allegedly a wealthy businessman who renounced his riches after a pilgrimage to Mecca. He supposedly drowned in the exact spot where the mosque is built. After leaving Haji Ali, we headed toward Marine Dr. and Chowpatty Beach. We took a quick look around there and went to find our cheap, but quite lovely, hotel.
From the hotel, we walked, shopped, walked and shopped some more. Both Andrea and I splurged on some great jewelry, of course! We then went to eat at Leopold's and had some BEERS! I am now a fan of Tiger Ale. After eating, Andrea needed to find an internet cafe to take care of a housing issue she is having. We found an internet cafe....well, you could call it that...! We had to travel down a dark hallway, and up two very seedy flights of stairs to what I assume is someone's attic??? Alas, they had computers that worked and we made it out alive....!
Next stop, night life...so we found a bar....and including us, I think every continent was represented....we met students from Africa, Indians, obviously, and some UK folks....I am not sure who else...but it was a trip. The music was American hip hop (mixed with a little Indian beat) and we had no problem meeting people....it was quite a people-watching adventure. We left the bar about 1230am. Walking back to the hotel presented a different side off India. Many people, whole families rather, sleeping on sidewalks. We were asked to buy drugs several times. It was a little freaky. Luckily, one of the Indian guys we had been talking to was walking ahead and waited for us. He made sure we didn't get harrassed, and he got us back to the hotel safely. (Thanks Karan!) It is moments like that when you realize how vulnerable you are!
We woke up early Saturday morning because we wanted to catch the first ferry to Elephanta Caves. Andrea left the room first to scope out a breakfast "joint." Nothing opens early in India fyi! She found a Lebanese restaurant that had "omelets." She ordered, and I met her there. We were the only people in the place, well, unless you count the RAT! Yep, I said RAT! Halfway through our "omelets" we noticed our furry friend walking along the cash register counter....we looked at each other and sighed...ah, India....then Rat's friend mouse showed up..then we left....! Gross. So from now on, we make sure to ask if the rat is included or if we pay extra for that! Just checking....
We made it to the "ferry" (and I use that term loosely) by 930 and by 1030, we pulled up to the dock of Elephanta Island. The island is inhabited by about 1200 Indian residents who rely solely on tourism. There is no electricty and the water is funneled into wells during the monsoon and will serve as the drinking water supply. We hired a guide (about $8 US) and walked toward the caves. Inside the caves, there are 9 panels depicting the various forms of Shiva. The are amazing! The caves were carved by Hindi priests that inhabited the island many, many years ago. When the Portugese arrived, they killed many of the priests and used the caves/panels for target practice. In some cases, arms, hands or other parts of the carving have been shot off, save for the largest panel showing the three faces of Shiva. This panel had been hidden behind a secret wall and was found much later. At this point, the heavens had opened up and we were getting soaked trying to get back to the boat. I forgot to mention that the island is inhabited by monkeys....yes, monkeys. They are crafty suckers and you have to watch yourself. I saw a poor Asian man get into a tussle with a monkey who was trying to snatch his bag! Wow, ah, India. None the less, they are cute as can be....from a distance! On the trek back to the "ferry" we bought grilled ears of corn from a sweet Indian lady. The corn was grilled and rubbed with lime juice! Yum! I suggest you grilling folks try that out! As we boarded the ferry, the rains started again. It made for a very bumpy, very WET ride home. When we got back to the Gateway of India, we were drenched, head to toe....ah, India!
Our original plan was to stay in the Chowpatty Beach area Sunday evening to watch the immersions of Ganesha. Sunday was the final day of the festival. We thought better of it because they were closing major roads and we knew we would never get back to my apartment if we stayed. I assured Andrea there would be immersions around my house. We made it back to my apartment by 630 and sure enough, the streets were alive. There were thousands of people dancing and drumming in the streets. They were all following behind huge, decorated trucks carrying the many, many Ganesha idols to the water. At first we walked along the sidewalk taking pictures. The next thing I knew we were dancing in the street. The Indian people were so thrilled that we wanted to be part of their celebration that they made sure we walked with them FOR HOURS! It was intense. Not only was the celebration intense, but at some points along the way, Andrea and I drew a far bigger crowd than the idols. People surrounded us and just stared. No, really, made giant circles around us.....most just wanted to be near us, to talk, whatever. That got to be a little much. There were firecrackers exploding every few feet and people were throwing handfuls of this hot pink powder all over the place. We were covered in it. Head to toe, hot pink....pink is apparently an auspicious color....more about all the things that are auspicious in India later! That is a blog entry in itself! We were able to get the hot pick off of our skin and mostly off of our clothes, save for the blond part of my hair. Yep, it is pink now....I cannot get it out. As if people didn't stare before......
Monday morning arrived and we headed to Bandra for the Festival of Virgin Mary. We spent some time in this little Catholic enclave. I, of course, bought some tacky idols and whatnot. We found some salad and pasta for lunch, not Indian food, yea, and then Andrea headed to the airport. We are both EXHAUSTED!! In all, it was an amazing weekend. We really left no stone unturned in Mumbai and pink hair to boot..... Andrea, thanks, it was a BLAST! I won't forget "a side of rat, phallic yellow balloons, what are you laughing at, I have no idea," and the other 200 things I can't remember right now because I am too tired.....see you in Jaipur!

Month One and the Like...

So, I had my first Indian massage today....wow, a little different than I am used to. In America, you are draped with a sheet/towel, something...not here....In America, some areas are "off limits"....not here. Geez....It was pretty much two young girls, a bowl of warm olive oil and this wooden table ( not sure what kind of wood, but smelled amazing)...and just check any bodily insecurities at the door. Ok, so enough about that....TMI, I know.
Last night, I was invited to spend the evening with Shanthala's HUM group, an amazing group of women who meet monthly and discuss books, music, or share some sort of cultural theme. The theme they shared with me was all about Ganesha. Each person was asked to share some music or a story about Ganesha and his role/importance in India. I learned a lot more about this revered God and was showered with lovely gifts reflecting the night's theme. I now have all the tools I need to have a "home altar" of my own, including kum kum! The food was awesome. I say that a lot, I know, but, so true. The appetizer was a glass of, get this, freshly squeezed white roses. No really, rose extract solely. I can't help but wonder how many roses it took to make a glass?? As I was drinking it, I kept thinking, I know this smell....sure enough, I did. The rose extract was brought from the northern state of Rajasthan. Such a treat.
In all, it has been a month since I left Columbus for India. When I arrived, I thought time would never pass, and now it is going too quickly. I have so much I still want to see/do. At this point, my life has a sense of routine here. I am thankful for the gym, where I feel so at home, and for the trainers who are keeping this amazing food from "sticking around!" I am thoroughly enjoying the lectures and the students. The students at Somaiya college are wonderfully intelligent, polite and are sooooo focused on their own success. They are teaching me far more than I am teaching them, I am certain. I am thankful for my mentors, who are no longer mentors, but close friends. Renu and Savita make each day so easy, and FUN! And yes, I will return when the first of Renu's children is married. I am not missing an Indian wedding, no way! I am also thankful for the wonderful friends that Shanthala has "organized" for me to make my stay full of adventure and wonderful activities. There are things I miss about home, sure, but in the grand scheme of things they are the simple conveniences that we all take for granted. There will be time enough for those later. The things I am getting used to however, are endless....I haven't done laundry, cleaned, ironed, cooked, had to drive anywhere (though I miss that a little), set an alarm clock, or even carried my own groceries to the door in a month. Heck, I barely even work!!! It is amazing when you take the day to day "stuff" out of life, how much time you have for yourself! Needless to say, I am well-rested! With that said, I have a lot to look forward to still in the next three months. Andrea and I have our travel plans set for heading north during late October. We will start in Jaipur, Rajasthan and end in the hill station of Darjeeling. I am excited to see the north of India, from the desert to the Himalayans. My asst. principal, Sharon, is coming for a visit in mid-October (the 15th), and she will be here for 10 days. I plan to take her to southern India. She said she is coming to see if India really does change a person. She asked me had I changed?? I said, I am not sure how much you will change in 10 days, but I have changed thus far in the sense that I now know there is nothing I can't do alone! Amen!

Golden Jubilee Kickoff and Update....

Sunday evening kicked off the Somaiya College 50 year Golden Jubilee Celebration. The principal had asked that staff be present and had asked that I be there as well. The college was beautifully decorated for the kickoff event. All the walkways were lit up and draped with gold fabric. There were also fountains and statues of Ganesha everywhere. The first event kicking off the Jubilee celebration was a book release, an autobiography of the founder's life. The founder, Mr. Somaiya, was a "self-made" man earning his fortune in the sugar industry (still thriving and being run by his son/grandson) in India. The presentation was held in the assembly hall of the engineering college and many family members, and the like, were present. It was a lovely event despite the fact that the WHOLE three hour presentation was in Gujarati....! That is a long time to sit and listen to speeches that sound like blah, blah, blah, blah.....at hour 2 1/2, I looked at Renu and said..."I am slowly going insane, I am going outside." After crawling over 10 people, I made it out the door. I looked back long enough to see Renu (in a sari, of course) crawling over the same people to escape as well. Needless to say, we were the first in line for the post-celebration dinner!
On the way home after the celebration, the streets were packed with Ganpati celebrations. It was day 5 of the Ganesha festival and many, many processions were water-bound to return Ganesha home. All the way down the highway, people lined up, dancing, drumming, and marching behind trucks, whatever to see Ganesha. We passed a little lake off the highway. I asked the rikshaw driver to stop so I could watch. The people were 10 deep around the edge of the water. It is truly an impressive event to see. I had one of those moments, like, "Wow, I am in India. I am really here and living in India" Surreal at times.....It is said that the more Ganeshas you lay your eyes on, the better your luck. I am due for some luck, so I am following Ganesha all over town. The biggest events are to come this weekend.
In all, this week is rolling right along. I am busy most every day with some school-related event, and have managed a long weekend off to spend with Andrea. We are both looking forward to being "normal" this weekend.......at least, as normal as we can be while sticking out like two American sore thumbs!!

Teacher's Day

Today, September 5, is considered Teacher's Day in India. Apparently, the former president of India was a teacher and he declared this a holiday. We didn't have formal lectures today, instead, the students prepared a cultural celebration to honor the teachers. Upon arrival at the school, all students greeted the teachers with a welcoming "Happy Teacher's Day ma'am or sir!" As we entered the assembly hall, the students handed each teacher a handmade card honoring teachers and the impact we have, in some way or another, had on their lives. They also had a pooja outside the hall where each teacher was "blessed" with candles (called an arti) and kum kum (the red powder) was placed on our foreheads. It was all quite touching. The students also sort of bow on greeting as if to touch your feet. I was told that in paying respects to teachers and elders the feet are supposed to be touched out of respect, as if to say "you are the guru." I had noticed this happening while visiting several homes this week when a elder was introduced to other guests.
After several speakers the students presented songs, monologues or dialogues in various languages, dancing and music. I was honored separately as a special guest and asked to say a few words. I thanked the students for their warm hospitality and for making me feel so welcome at K.J. Somaiya College. Following the celebration, there was food for the teachers and the students who participated. As always the food was awesome, samosas and chutney, yum! I am a fan!
Aside from Teacher's Day, Ganpati, or the Ganesha Festival, is still in full swing. The submersions have started. I saw many people gathered around a lake yesterday as I was coming home from school. The parade to the "water" is quite an event itself with many people following the "vehicle" (be it a wagon, truck, whatever) that is carrying the idol. There is much drumming and singing. There is also a lot of hot pink powder being thrown around, many people are covered in it, and so is the road.....many more submersions will follow in the days to come.
In all, things are good. I can't believe I am coming up on a month already.....this coming week will be busy as the college is kicking off it's Golden Jubilee celebration. I have been asked to attend several events in this celebration, a book release, and something else....can't remember....!
Other things I have learned.....
1.) There are a lot of cows roaming right now, it is considered good karma to feed them some grass.
2.) The lines on the road mean nothing, absolutely nothing....someone was quoted as saying..."we don't know why the lines are here, the British left them!" Needless to say, driving is a mess....!
3.) There are a lot of other animals roaming too, pigs, donkeys, goats, and of course, dogs....and that is both on the highway and everywhere else too. There was a dog outside my classroom the other day...no one seemed concerned, so I wasn't either....??!
4.) No means nothing in India....no means, of course I will have more of whatever....there is no "NO!"
5.) Time is relative and no one is in a hurry, no one.....
6.) Indian hospitality is like no other...you want for nothing and the red carpet is always rolled out. The Indian people are extremely warm and friendly, and very, very proud!

Ganesha Overload...

Where to begin, where to begin...how about this morning when my sleep was totally interuptted by a lot of drumming and carrying on outside my window....early....! I am all about Ganesha, until he wakes me up....fyi!
So, the past few days have sorta been a blur. I have been teaching and that is all going well. I was asked to stay after school and teach a few girls the "American" accent. They think it is sweet...they also think I am sweet as well....I have them all fooled. I am not sure how to teach an accent, so I am going to work on that....other than that, it is all about Ganesha.
Tuesday evening, Ganesha Eve, so to speak, Shyamala and her husband invited me to their friend's home for dinner. They live pretty close to my house. The meal was typical Gujarati...the state north of here. As I mentioned in an earlier blog, everyone is quick to identify food region and people region....none of which I can remember, but they keep telling me....bless them all. Dinner was fabulous, quite spicy and many, many types of sweets, (I am continually amazed at what they can do with chick pea flour and lentils around here) including kulfi, Indian ice-cream which rocks. Sort of nutty and minty and way, way creamy.....hard to describe.
After dinner, we all walked around the neighborhood to check out the "spots" where Ganesha would be arriving. They are sort of make shift temples that are elaborately decorated. People would be working all night long to get them ready for the arrival. We also stopped at a friend's office where they were creating an amazingly elaborate piece of artwork (for Ganesha) out of little beads of grain, all of which had been dyed many, many different colors. Each little tiny piece was hand glued onto a large sheet of paper in this sort of Ganesha battle scene....quite impressive. I guess they work all night and day for about 3-4 weeks straight....and when the festival is over, into the sea it goes as well.....
Early Wednesday morning, afer I was roused from my slumber by drumming, I came over to Shyamala's home around 11. They had just finished their pooja (offering) to Ganesha. The food had been "blessed" and bestowed upon him first, they we could take the food off of the altar to eat ourselves. Ganesha is fond of his sweets, so they say, a lot of sugar cane and other stuff like that....also, all dishes had 5 ingredients, not sure why and no one seemed to know, just the way it is. We then went down to the public pooja near their condo. There was much singing, praying and waving of candles in front of the altar, all very festive. I was encouraged to particiapate and I am not one to turn down any sort of "potential good karma," so what the heck.....the statue was quite large....and there are many, many more parading around the city awaiting their poojas to begin. Tonight, I am to go to Savita's home for her families pooja. (I really just like saying that word, fyi)!
Tomorrow morning, we wake early, head to the Arabian sea for the first submersions of the idols. The idols may be submersed as early as 1 1/2 days after the start of the fest, or the 3rd, 5th, and finally, 11th day of the fest. Some people choose to submerse early because of the vast amount of work involved in maintaining the pooja. All food must be freshly made every day, the sweets, flowers, tumeric (yellow root powder) and kum kum (red powder that you often see on the forehead) etc. Nothing, I mean nothing, can be leftover....so as you can imagine, after 11 days, that is a lot of work......the large public statues do remain all 11 days however.....
So as I sit here typing, I can here the drumming, dancing, and fireworks.....over and over and over again......and only 10 more days of it....sigh.....Ganesha.

Maya Ravan

Newsflash....the internet at Flat #2 Sheetal, BLOWS! Sorry for the delay in postings, but between power outages and slow internet, I really want to stab myself 1 million times with a spoon!
Anywho....last night Shyamala, my culture guru, and I went to see the wonderful Indian production of Maya Ravan. The story itself is based on Hindu mythology and was told through narration and movement. It was a very well-done, creative show. The dancers told the story of Rama and his beautiful wife Sita defeating the envious Ravan. The lead dancer is, I guess, a well-known actress in India and the narrations that moved the story along were voice overs by other well-known Bollywood stars. The play itself was staged downtown at the Nehru Theater.
During the intermission, I stood up to walk outside for a few minutes, and as I was leaving all these camera/papparazzi types came flying through the doors and headed for the front row. Shyamala then pointed out that seated in the front row were mostly well-known Bollywood stars of today and from the past. Could of fooled me, I am not up on the Bollywood scene...I guess they were there for opening night. I did try to get myself into some sort of picture. It would be a dream come true to end up on the Mumbai gossip page....alas, no such luck.....but, no worries, I still have time!
In other news, not a lot going on. I am helping to grade the exams from last week, continuing to lecture on a daily basis, eating a lot of great food (love dosas), and going to the gym (my social life, sadly). This week is a huge week in Mumbai as the festival of Ganesha (patron god of Mumbai) kicks off on Wed. Sept 3rd. They whole town is getting ready. There is much decorating and baking going on. The temples are brightly decorated with lights and flowers. I am excited to be a part of this festival. We are off on the first day of the fest. On the first day, the idol of Ganesha is brought into the home, or if an idol is not brought into the home, you would go to another home to worship Ganesha. There will also be huge statues of Ganesha around the city that people will stand in long lines to see. I will keep you all posted on this festive event. Until next time, pray for better internet and look for me in the Mumbai tabloids....!

Found the beers, the Brits, and the shopping in downtown Mumbai!

I knew it was all here, I just had to find it, and I did! Taking advantage of my sudden time off, Shyamala took me to infamous downtown Mumbai, postcard Mumbai. The downtown area is so different from the northern suburbs. Though I appreciate the 'burbs for offering the true Indian experience, I can't help but enjoy what downtown has to offer. We started our adventure early in the morning, traffic here is fierce and it took about two hours to travel less then 40k. As we entered the downtown area, we drove down famous Marine Dr. This stretch of road reminded me so much of Lakeshore Dr. in Chicago. The high rise hotels and condos were on our left and the beautiful Arabian Sea was on the right. This area, known as Chowpatty Beach, is a well-known tourist attraction, not for sunning, more for strolling along the promenade.

Once we arrived, we stopped at a sort of artist colony/gallery where some local artists were having an exhibition. We then stopped briefly at another museum, formerly known as the Prince of Wales musuem, (Shyamala wanted to sign up for a class) that houses historic treasures from India, Thailand, and the like.

Ok, enough museums, where is the shopping? At least that is what I was thinking anyay! We then went to lunch at a south Indian "joint," (restaurants are often called joints, fyi) for some amazing treats, and again, super cheap. Lunch for two ran about $3! After lunch, we then strolled all through the Colaba Causeway area. Shopping and hostels/hotels galore. From high-end stores to street vendors, jewelry, art, shoes, anything Indian, or otherwise, was available! I was mostly looking yesterday, but did score an amazing hand-painted pendant, sterling silver for about $30! Had to have it people, had to....We also stopped at an amazing stationary/paper store. There, you could find beautifully made cards, wrapping paper, gift tags, etc. for practically free. I did pick up a ton of cards, five card packs with envelopes ran less than a dollar per pack! Crazy....!

The downtown area looks an awful lot like London with palm trees and sans gray gloom. The architecture is very much influenced by the English and there is even a clock tower that so resembles Big Ben. The flavor of India is still quite present with temples jammed in between towering universities, street-side food vendors, fruit stands, etc., but considerably less slum in the Colaba area. All throughout the day, I saw tourists from Canada, UK, etc. and plenty o' beer joints, finally!

After our shopping, or looking rather, we headed toward the Arabian sea to check out the Gateway to India, built by King George V and Queen Mary in 1911 as a ceremonial entrance. Ironically, the last Brit troops to leave India in 1948 exited through this gateway as well. We also checked out the world famous Taj Mahal Palace and hotel (not that Taj, this one is different!) Lastly, a little more shopping, and then, the worst traffic grid-lock ever....sigh...in all, I enjoy staying in the suburbs for the true India feel, but for anyone planning a trip to India, the south end of Mumbai is the way to go. I plan to spend more time there, and have already booked a room for when Andrea arrives during the Ganesha festival. On the last day of the festival, day 11, the idols of Ganesha are submersed in the sea for his return home. It seems staying near the Arabian Sea is the perfect place to watch this famous event, and to drink a beer....or two.