Fulbright Family in Ahmedabad, Gujarat

Last Wednesday, November 26, I left for Gujarat to meet up with my friends and colleagues for the Fulbright conference. The purpose of our gathering was to discuss how to make India a study abroad destination for US scholars and to share our own experiences. The weekend turned out to be so much more. Just after my plane touched down in Ahmedabad, hell was broke loose in Colaba, Mumbai. Just prior to leaving for the airport, I had spent time at the USIEF office and a few other places in Colaba. It seemed that each stop I made in Colaba was later to be in the line of fire for some heinous terrorist activity. The feeling was surreal.
Unaware of the activities that were about to take place in Mumbai, the Fulbrighters reunited. We were housed at the Indian Institute of Management, one of the best universities in India, think Harvard of India. I was happy to see my teaching colleagues, some of which I had not seen since Delhi in August, save for Bree and Andrea. Also in our presence were student researchers and visiting professors from many US institutions. We all met for dinner and talked for hours about this amazing experience. It seems we all share a love for his country .
Immediately following dinner, the calls/texts started flowing. Mumbai was under attack. I, along with two other student researchers living in Mumbai, banded together and tried to make sense of it all. It was a horrible feeling. We watched in horror as all the places/people we had come to know/love were in jeopardy. The rest of that night was spent glued to the television or on the phone with friends/family. I contacted my US family, and of course, my Mumbai family as well. Thankfully, everyone was accounted for. What we didn't know was that the nightmare was just beginning.
After little sleep, we headed to the first of our Fulbright sessions. We were met by a representative from the embassy who briefed us on the attacks and what we needed to do to remain safe. We were stunned that Mumbai was still paralyzed. At this point, there were many theories, most of which pointed to the demand for American and UK citizens.
We made it through the day, mostly unable to concentrate, but happy to have a diversion as we waited, along with the rest of the world. The Fulbright sessions went late, but we were off to celebrate Thanksgiving together and we had a lot to be thankful for! The dinner was held at the open-air, rooftop restaurant Le Meredian in Ahmedabad. The place was absolutely beautiful and the food was amazing. The did have turkey for us. It was quite small and not exactly what we were used to, but it is the thought that counts. It was also the first Thanksgiving that I have had any dish made with paneer and gulab jammon....but, I think this will be a new tradition for me! After dinner, we all returned to our rooms to watch the coverage and to continue to assure our family/friends that we were safe as they celebrated Thanksgiving back home.
Friday brought little relief as the Mumbai nightmare continued. We completed our Fulbright work in the late afternoon and spent the rest of the day sightseeing. We headed to the Dada Hari Wav, or stepwells, built in 1499 by a woman of Sultan Begara's harem. After that, we headed to Sabarmati Ashram. Founded by Gandhi in 1915, he used this particular place as his headquarters. It was from here in 1930 that he set out on the famous Salt March in protest. The artifacts in the museum were fascinating and given the state of India at the moment, the message was quite necessary. We also hit the Law Garden market where everyone picked up some of the famous "mirror-work" fabric that is so well-known in Gujarat. Then back to the university to spend time socializing. The Mumbai Fulbrighters, myself included, were scheduled to head back very early in the morning. We were so unsure of what we were headed back to. It was a scary feeling. As we landed in Mumbai, we stuck together. All heading in different directions, we kept in touch until we had all reached our respective corners of the city. Mumbai felt different that morning, perhaps because it was insanely early, perhaps because there was a dark cloud overhead. I made it home and didn't stray far that day. In the evening, I went to dinner and was happy to feel secure in my neighborhood amongst my friends. Slowly, Mumbai will recover. This city has a spirit like no other!
Special thanks to Peter, Taiyaba, Karin, and Thomas for a bootleg cookie and whiskey adventure. I am glad we can put our Fulbright intelligence to good use. Taiyaba, I can't wait to read the novel, and I will be at the book release! Also to Bree, any time spent together is awesome. See you over the holiday.
I also thank Dr. Patzer, Dr. Donna, and so many of the other Fulbrighter Scholars that shared their amazing work and succcess stories. You have inspired me to keep pushing ahead.
Also, I say a prayer for Mumbai. So many people lost their lives in a completely horrific manner. This is a moment I will never forget in a country that means so much. Amen.