Uh, I don't even no where to begin....most of you know that my friend Andrea flew in from Calcutta this weekend. (She is a also a Fulbright Scholar, from Santa Fe, NM). She and I met in DC at orientation and have kept in touch all along. Anyway, she flew in Friday night and we hit the ground running first thing Sat. morning.
Early Sat. morning we had to be at my college for a literary presentation. She also met some of my colleagues and saw Somaiya college. I had hired a car and driver for the day, so right after the presentation we headed downtown to the Colaba Causeway area. On the way, we asked the driver to stop at Haji Ali, a mosque that sits on a little island just outside of Worli (a suburb near downtown). The masjid, or mosque, sits off the coast and can only be reached by a very long walkway during low tide. Haji Ali was allegedly a wealthy businessman who renounced his riches after a pilgrimage to Mecca. He supposedly drowned in the exact spot where the mosque is built. After leaving Haji Ali, we headed toward Marine Dr. and Chowpatty Beach. We took a quick look around there and went to find our cheap, but quite lovely, hotel.
From the hotel, we walked, shopped, walked and shopped some more. Both Andrea and I splurged on some great jewelry, of course! We then went to eat at Leopold's and had some BEERS! I am now a fan of Tiger Ale. After eating, Andrea needed to find an internet cafe to take care of a housing issue she is having. We found an internet cafe....well, you could call it that...! We had to travel down a dark hallway, and up two very seedy flights of stairs to what I assume is someone's attic??? Alas, they had computers that worked and we made it out alive....!
Next stop, night life...so we found a bar....and including us, I think every continent was represented....we met students from Africa, Indians, obviously, and some UK folks....I am not sure who else...but it was a trip. The music was American hip hop (mixed with a little Indian beat) and we had no problem meeting people....it was quite a people-watching adventure. We left the bar about 1230am. Walking back to the hotel presented a different side off India. Many people, whole families rather, sleeping on sidewalks. We were asked to buy drugs several times. It was a little freaky. Luckily, one of the Indian guys we had been talking to was walking ahead and waited for us. He made sure we didn't get harrassed, and he got us back to the hotel safely. (Thanks Karan!) It is moments like that when you realize how vulnerable you are!
We woke up early Saturday morning because we wanted to catch the first ferry to Elephanta Caves. Andrea left the room first to scope out a breakfast "joint." Nothing opens early in India fyi! She found a Lebanese restaurant that had "omelets." She ordered, and I met her there. We were the only people in the place, well, unless you count the RAT! Yep, I said RAT! Halfway through our "omelets" we noticed our furry friend walking along the cash register counter....we looked at each other and sighed...ah, India....then Rat's friend mouse showed up..then we left....! Gross. So from now on, we make sure to ask if the rat is included or if we pay extra for that! Just checking....
We made it to the "ferry" (and I use that term loosely) by 930 and by 1030, we pulled up to the dock of Elephanta Island. The island is inhabited by about 1200 Indian residents who rely solely on tourism. There is no electricty and the water is funneled into wells during the monsoon and will serve as the drinking water supply. We hired a guide (about $8 US) and walked toward the caves. Inside the caves, there are 9 panels depicting the various forms of Shiva. The are amazing! The caves were carved by Hindi priests that inhabited the island many, many years ago. When the Portugese arrived, they killed many of the priests and used the caves/panels for target practice. In some cases, arms, hands or other parts of the carving have been shot off, save for the largest panel showing the three faces of Shiva. This panel had been hidden behind a secret wall and was found much later. At this point, the heavens had opened up and we were getting soaked trying to get back to the boat. I forgot to mention that the island is inhabited by monkeys....yes, monkeys. They are crafty suckers and you have to watch yourself. I saw a poor Asian man get into a tussle with a monkey who was trying to snatch his bag! Wow, ah, India. None the less, they are cute as can be....from a distance! On the trek back to the "ferry" we bought grilled ears of corn from a sweet Indian lady. The corn was grilled and rubbed with lime juice! Yum! I suggest you grilling folks try that out! As we boarded the ferry, the rains started again. It made for a very bumpy, very WET ride home. When we got back to the Gateway of India, we were drenched, head to toe....ah, India!
Our original plan was to stay in the Chowpatty Beach area Sunday evening to watch the immersions of Ganesha. Sunday was the final day of the festival. We thought better of it because they were closing major roads and we knew we would never get back to my apartment if we stayed. I assured Andrea there would be immersions around my house. We made it back to my apartment by 630 and sure enough, the streets were alive. There were thousands of people dancing and drumming in the streets. They were all following behind huge, decorated trucks carrying the many, many Ganesha idols to the water. At first we walked along the sidewalk taking pictures. The next thing I knew we were dancing in the street. The Indian people were so thrilled that we wanted to be part of their celebration that they made sure we walked with them FOR HOURS! It was intense. Not only was the celebration intense, but at some points along the way, Andrea and I drew a far bigger crowd than the idols. People surrounded us and just stared. No, really, made giant circles around us.....most just wanted to be near us, to talk, whatever. That got to be a little much. There were firecrackers exploding every few feet and people were throwing handfuls of this hot pink powder all over the place. We were covered in it. Head to toe, hot pink....pink is apparently an auspicious color....more about all the things that are auspicious in India later! That is a blog entry in itself! We were able to get the hot pick off of our skin and mostly off of our clothes, save for the blond part of my hair. Yep, it is pink now....I cannot get it out. As if people didn't stare before......
Monday morning arrived and we headed to Bandra for the Festival of Virgin Mary. We spent some time in this little Catholic enclave. I, of course, bought some tacky idols and whatnot. We found some salad and pasta for lunch, not Indian food, yea, and then Andrea headed to the airport. We are both EXHAUSTED!! In all, it was an amazing weekend. We really left no stone unturned in Mumbai and pink hair to boot..... Andrea, thanks, it was a BLAST! I won't forget "a side of rat, phallic yellow balloons, what are you laughing at, I have no idea," and the other 200 things I can't remember right now because I am too tired.....see you in Jaipur!
Monday, September 15, 2008
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