Leaving No Stone Unturned
To try and capture my experience in India in a simple article almost seems a bit unfair. How does one capture the essence of the most gracious people in the world? How does one describe the food from ALL corners of the country? How does one describe the rich cultural display found on virtually every street corner? How does one leave this country and remain unchanged? The answers are simple, you can’t. India is a place to be experienced, not read about.
I will begin with the people. It is said that when you make a friend in India, you make a friend for life. I agree. There are no people like the Indian people. From the moment I stepped off the plane, I have made friendships that will last a lifetime. Every door has been widely opened, every family’s arms extended, every heart welcoming of a virtual stranger. I cannot say it enough, the people are what makes this country so special.
Next, the culture of India has captured my heart. I have been fortunate, blessed even, to have been in India during the height of festival season. Of course, it has been said that the festival season in India starts in January and ends in December. From what I have seen thus far, that may indeed be the case. From the time I arrived, I have participated in festivities surrounding Independence Day, Raksha Bandhan, Krishna Janmashtami, Ganesh Chaturthi, Teacher’s Day, Dussehra, Navratri and Durga Puja, Gandhi Jayanti, Diwali, and the forthcoming Christmas holiday, just to name a few. Witnessing the festivities surrounding Ganesh Chaturthi would have to be one of the most memorable moments of my stay here. Never in my life have I witnessed such piety and devotion. From the ceremony of bringing the idol home, to the many pujas, and finally the immersions, Ganesha will always have a place in my soul and in my home.
Lastly, the places of India. No country on earth can boast such diversity, such variation, and such splendor as the states of India. I never imagined I would see so much of this country in such a short time. From the backwaters of Kerala, the pristine beaches of Goa, the deserts of Rajasthan, the Himalayas of Darjeeling, the Taj Mahal of Agra, and the sacred Ganges of Varanasi, I have left no stone unturned. Each region celebrating its own cuisine, fashion, language, and culture, all in the name of one country, India.
The astrologer I visited in Chokhi Dhani said I was lucky. I agree. I am lucky to have been a part of this great country and more specifically, this great city, Mumbai. The astrologer also said that my work here was not done, and that I would be back. He was right. I will be back. So, as I prepare to go, I know that my absence is temporary. Mumbai, with all your chaos, all your load-shedding, all your traffic, and all your glitz and glamour, you have left a permanent mark on my heart, and my soul. Amchi Mumbai.
Saturday, December 13, 2008
Wednesday, December 10, 2008
Somaiya College- Magazine Article and Warm Regards
Foray Into The Unknown
When the news came back in March that I would be heading to India for my Fulbright exchange, I was elated. India, so exotic and wonderful. I felt lucky to have been selected. As time passed, I came to learn that I would be teaching at K.J. Somaiya College in Ghatkopar. So many questions raced through my mind. Where would I live? How would I survive so far from home? Would I “fit in” and make friends? Would the students like me? I was overwhelmed and scared. All my questions quickly found their own answers.
Almost immediately, Mrs. Shanthala Kasarkod, my exchange partner, and I began exchanging emails. In a few months, we would swap lives completely. She had as many questions and concerns as I did. We helped each other understand what to expect in our host cities and more importantly, in our host schools. We finally had the pleasure of meeting in August at the Fulbright orientation. I found a friend in Mrs. Kasarkod, and we assured each other that this would indeed be the experience of a lifetime.
As the plane touched ground in Mumbai on August 14, my heart pounded and my palms were sweating. This was the BIG moment. I was wrapped in fear. My pre-arranged ride was not available to pick me up. Panic set in. I dialed the only number I had handy and the voice on the other end would come to be one I will never forget.
Shortly thereafter, my life would change. To my rescue came my mentors, Mrs. Renu Bakshi and Mrs. Savita Moghe. Seeing their smiling faces for the first time brought a sigh of relief. This was my first introduction to K. J. Somaiya College and I had no idea that this initial meeting would define the next five months.
I was quickly whisked away into the depths of a city that would be my new home with two amazing women that would be part of my new family. Upon arriving at K.J. Somaiya College, I was overwhelmed with the Indian hospitality that makes this country so phenomenal. The staff and students at Somaiya College greeted me like a long lost friend, not a stranger they had never met. This welcome would continue without fail for the duration of my stay.
There are no words to describe the experience that I have had at Somaiya College. My colleagues are amongst the best and the brightest. Their never ending patience and laughter has comforted me every day. I know no strangers here, and cannot thank them enough. The students, in all their awe and amazement of “the American,” have taught me far more than I have taught them. They are dedicated to their education, highly respectful, talented, and are truly the future of this great country.
Sadly, my time is drawing to a close. If I could stay forever, I would. However, I cannot. But, I take with me friendships that will last a lifetime, an arsenal of twenty or so well-used Hindi words, and memories that will never be surpassed. Thank you K.J. Somaiya College for allowing me to become part of the fabric that makes you so rich. The pleasure has been all mine.
When the news came back in March that I would be heading to India for my Fulbright exchange, I was elated. India, so exotic and wonderful. I felt lucky to have been selected. As time passed, I came to learn that I would be teaching at K.J. Somaiya College in Ghatkopar. So many questions raced through my mind. Where would I live? How would I survive so far from home? Would I “fit in” and make friends? Would the students like me? I was overwhelmed and scared. All my questions quickly found their own answers.
Almost immediately, Mrs. Shanthala Kasarkod, my exchange partner, and I began exchanging emails. In a few months, we would swap lives completely. She had as many questions and concerns as I did. We helped each other understand what to expect in our host cities and more importantly, in our host schools. We finally had the pleasure of meeting in August at the Fulbright orientation. I found a friend in Mrs. Kasarkod, and we assured each other that this would indeed be the experience of a lifetime.
As the plane touched ground in Mumbai on August 14, my heart pounded and my palms were sweating. This was the BIG moment. I was wrapped in fear. My pre-arranged ride was not available to pick me up. Panic set in. I dialed the only number I had handy and the voice on the other end would come to be one I will never forget.
Shortly thereafter, my life would change. To my rescue came my mentors, Mrs. Renu Bakshi and Mrs. Savita Moghe. Seeing their smiling faces for the first time brought a sigh of relief. This was my first introduction to K. J. Somaiya College and I had no idea that this initial meeting would define the next five months.
I was quickly whisked away into the depths of a city that would be my new home with two amazing women that would be part of my new family. Upon arriving at K.J. Somaiya College, I was overwhelmed with the Indian hospitality that makes this country so phenomenal. The staff and students at Somaiya College greeted me like a long lost friend, not a stranger they had never met. This welcome would continue without fail for the duration of my stay.
There are no words to describe the experience that I have had at Somaiya College. My colleagues are amongst the best and the brightest. Their never ending patience and laughter has comforted me every day. I know no strangers here, and cannot thank them enough. The students, in all their awe and amazement of “the American,” have taught me far more than I have taught them. They are dedicated to their education, highly respectful, talented, and are truly the future of this great country.
Sadly, my time is drawing to a close. If I could stay forever, I would. However, I cannot. But, I take with me friendships that will last a lifetime, an arsenal of twenty or so well-used Hindi words, and memories that will never be surpassed. Thank you K.J. Somaiya College for allowing me to become part of the fabric that makes you so rich. The pleasure has been all mine.
Sunday, December 7, 2008
Decidedly Indian
My days here are numbered, sadly. It is no secret that I am not happy about it. It is no secret that I do not want to leave. It is also no secret that I completely love India, and specifically, Mumbai. But, my mom and my teaching contract insist that I must return, so reluctantly, I shall, but trust me, it WILL be at the last possible minute.
With that, the last week or so has been quite busy with many activities. Last Wed. evening, I rejoined with Shanthala's HUM group. The topic of discussion that evening was my adventures here in India, and also the differences in Indian/American education. Easy topics for discussion since I have a lot to say about both! I can't thank this wonderful group of ladies enough. They have absolutely showered me with kindness and hospitality since the moment I stepped off the plane. I couldn't have done it without you all. I especially thank Shyamala for getting me on my feet and showing me around, Aruna for keeping me sane and connected to Mulund, and to Grija, any chance for non-veg. is a treat! I am not sure how I can repay any of you.
Aside from the HUM meeting, Somaiya College is in full "cutural forum" mode. There are many programs in place right now to commemorate the silver anniversary of the college and to recognize outstanding students. The English department has put up several literary competitions with great success. I am pleased to have been part of the poetry and story-boarding instruction. I am hoping that my fellow Fulbright friend Taiyaba (novelist) will hold a writing workshop in the coming week.
Last Thursday, I met my fellow Fulbright friends in Juhu for a night at Pritvhi Theatre. This small, sort of experimental theatre is located in Juhu and what a total treat. The play, "Me, Kash & Cruise" was a look at Bombay, a city that continually rises from "the dead." A city that is always "dealing" with its "interesting" politics, numerous terror attacks, riots, etc. The play was timely given the events of the past few weeks. The acting was superb and after having lived here for a few months, I could relate to much of the material. We also had wonderful Italian food and sangria (DelItaliano) in Juhu, a great night in all!
What else? I broke a tooth this past weekend and had my first adventure with the Indian medical/hospital system. I must say, I was completely impressed. I was able to get into the emergency dental clinic at Hiranandani Hospital in Powai immediately. I only had to wait for a few minutes and the problem was diagnosed quite quickly. I am able to have the tooth repaired and re-capped later this week for a fraction of American prices, and frankly, I was far more impressed with the level of service. I completely understand the growing boom for these "medical vacations" people are scheduling in India. Thanks Dr. Ria for your humor, sorry I squirmed so much and thanks Nitesh for making my tooth your priority!
This week, I am attending a wedding on Tuesday. A colleague of mine from the English Dept. is getting married. I am wearing a sari, and am quite excited about it. I will have more to say about all of this in my next post. In all, I am cherishing EVERY last second I have in this amazing city.
With that, the last week or so has been quite busy with many activities. Last Wed. evening, I rejoined with Shanthala's HUM group. The topic of discussion that evening was my adventures here in India, and also the differences in Indian/American education. Easy topics for discussion since I have a lot to say about both! I can't thank this wonderful group of ladies enough. They have absolutely showered me with kindness and hospitality since the moment I stepped off the plane. I couldn't have done it without you all. I especially thank Shyamala for getting me on my feet and showing me around, Aruna for keeping me sane and connected to Mulund, and to Grija, any chance for non-veg. is a treat! I am not sure how I can repay any of you.
Aside from the HUM meeting, Somaiya College is in full "cutural forum" mode. There are many programs in place right now to commemorate the silver anniversary of the college and to recognize outstanding students. The English department has put up several literary competitions with great success. I am pleased to have been part of the poetry and story-boarding instruction. I am hoping that my fellow Fulbright friend Taiyaba (novelist) will hold a writing workshop in the coming week.
Last Thursday, I met my fellow Fulbright friends in Juhu for a night at Pritvhi Theatre. This small, sort of experimental theatre is located in Juhu and what a total treat. The play, "Me, Kash & Cruise" was a look at Bombay, a city that continually rises from "the dead." A city that is always "dealing" with its "interesting" politics, numerous terror attacks, riots, etc. The play was timely given the events of the past few weeks. The acting was superb and after having lived here for a few months, I could relate to much of the material. We also had wonderful Italian food and sangria (DelItaliano) in Juhu, a great night in all!
What else? I broke a tooth this past weekend and had my first adventure with the Indian medical/hospital system. I must say, I was completely impressed. I was able to get into the emergency dental clinic at Hiranandani Hospital in Powai immediately. I only had to wait for a few minutes and the problem was diagnosed quite quickly. I am able to have the tooth repaired and re-capped later this week for a fraction of American prices, and frankly, I was far more impressed with the level of service. I completely understand the growing boom for these "medical vacations" people are scheduling in India. Thanks Dr. Ria for your humor, sorry I squirmed so much and thanks Nitesh for making my tooth your priority!
This week, I am attending a wedding on Tuesday. A colleague of mine from the English Dept. is getting married. I am wearing a sari, and am quite excited about it. I will have more to say about all of this in my next post. In all, I am cherishing EVERY last second I have in this amazing city.
Monday, December 1, 2008
Fulbright Family in Ahmedabad, Gujarat
Last Wednesday, November 26, I left for Gujarat to meet up with my friends and colleagues for the Fulbright conference. The purpose of our gathering was to discuss how to make India a study abroad destination for US scholars and to share our own experiences. The weekend turned out to be so much more. Just after my plane touched down in Ahmedabad, hell was broke loose in Colaba, Mumbai. Just prior to leaving for the airport, I had spent time at the USIEF office and a few other places in Colaba. It seemed that each stop I made in Colaba was later to be in the line of fire for some heinous terrorist activity. The feeling was surreal.
Unaware of the activities that were about to take place in Mumbai, the Fulbrighters reunited. We were housed at the Indian Institute of Management, one of the best universities in India, think Harvard of India. I was happy to see my teaching colleagues, some of which I had not seen since Delhi in August, save for Bree and Andrea. Also in our presence were student researchers and visiting professors from many US institutions. We all met for dinner and talked for hours about this amazing experience. It seems we all share a love for his country .
Immediately following dinner, the calls/texts started flowing. Mumbai was under attack. I, along with two other student researchers living in Mumbai, banded together and tried to make sense of it all. It was a horrible feeling. We watched in horror as all the places/people we had come to know/love were in jeopardy. The rest of that night was spent glued to the television or on the phone with friends/family. I contacted my US family, and of course, my Mumbai family as well. Thankfully, everyone was accounted for. What we didn't know was that the nightmare was just beginning.
After little sleep, we headed to the first of our Fulbright sessions. We were met by a representative from the embassy who briefed us on the attacks and what we needed to do to remain safe. We were stunned that Mumbai was still paralyzed. At this point, there were many theories, most of which pointed to the demand for American and UK citizens.
We made it through the day, mostly unable to concentrate, but happy to have a diversion as we waited, along with the rest of the world. The Fulbright sessions went late, but we were off to celebrate Thanksgiving together and we had a lot to be thankful for! The dinner was held at the open-air, rooftop restaurant Le Meredian in Ahmedabad. The place was absolutely beautiful and the food was amazing. The did have turkey for us. It was quite small and not exactly what we were used to, but it is the thought that counts. It was also the first Thanksgiving that I have had any dish made with paneer and gulab jammon....but, I think this will be a new tradition for me! After dinner, we all returned to our rooms to watch the coverage and to continue to assure our family/friends that we were safe as they celebrated Thanksgiving back home.
Friday brought little relief as the Mumbai nightmare continued. We completed our Fulbright work in the late afternoon and spent the rest of the day sightseeing. We headed to the Dada Hari Wav, or stepwells, built in 1499 by a woman of Sultan Begara's harem. After that, we headed to Sabarmati Ashram. Founded by Gandhi in 1915, he used this particular place as his headquarters. It was from here in 1930 that he set out on the famous Salt March in protest. The artifacts in the museum were fascinating and given the state of India at the moment, the message was quite necessary. We also hit the Law Garden market where everyone picked up some of the famous "mirror-work" fabric that is so well-known in Gujarat. Then back to the university to spend time socializing. The Mumbai Fulbrighters, myself included, were scheduled to head back very early in the morning. We were so unsure of what we were headed back to. It was a scary feeling. As we landed in Mumbai, we stuck together. All heading in different directions, we kept in touch until we had all reached our respective corners of the city. Mumbai felt different that morning, perhaps because it was insanely early, perhaps because there was a dark cloud overhead. I made it home and didn't stray far that day. In the evening, I went to dinner and was happy to feel secure in my neighborhood amongst my friends. Slowly, Mumbai will recover. This city has a spirit like no other!
Special thanks to Peter, Taiyaba, Karin, and Thomas for a bootleg cookie and whiskey adventure. I am glad we can put our Fulbright intelligence to good use. Taiyaba, I can't wait to read the novel, and I will be at the book release! Also to Bree, any time spent together is awesome. See you over the holiday.
I also thank Dr. Patzer, Dr. Donna, and so many of the other Fulbrighter Scholars that shared their amazing work and succcess stories. You have inspired me to keep pushing ahead.
Also, I say a prayer for Mumbai. So many people lost their lives in a completely horrific manner. This is a moment I will never forget in a country that means so much. Amen.
Unaware of the activities that were about to take place in Mumbai, the Fulbrighters reunited. We were housed at the Indian Institute of Management, one of the best universities in India, think Harvard of India. I was happy to see my teaching colleagues, some of which I had not seen since Delhi in August, save for Bree and Andrea. Also in our presence were student researchers and visiting professors from many US institutions. We all met for dinner and talked for hours about this amazing experience. It seems we all share a love for his country .
Immediately following dinner, the calls/texts started flowing. Mumbai was under attack. I, along with two other student researchers living in Mumbai, banded together and tried to make sense of it all. It was a horrible feeling. We watched in horror as all the places/people we had come to know/love were in jeopardy. The rest of that night was spent glued to the television or on the phone with friends/family. I contacted my US family, and of course, my Mumbai family as well. Thankfully, everyone was accounted for. What we didn't know was that the nightmare was just beginning.
After little sleep, we headed to the first of our Fulbright sessions. We were met by a representative from the embassy who briefed us on the attacks and what we needed to do to remain safe. We were stunned that Mumbai was still paralyzed. At this point, there were many theories, most of which pointed to the demand for American and UK citizens.
We made it through the day, mostly unable to concentrate, but happy to have a diversion as we waited, along with the rest of the world. The Fulbright sessions went late, but we were off to celebrate Thanksgiving together and we had a lot to be thankful for! The dinner was held at the open-air, rooftop restaurant Le Meredian in Ahmedabad. The place was absolutely beautiful and the food was amazing. The did have turkey for us. It was quite small and not exactly what we were used to, but it is the thought that counts. It was also the first Thanksgiving that I have had any dish made with paneer and gulab jammon....but, I think this will be a new tradition for me! After dinner, we all returned to our rooms to watch the coverage and to continue to assure our family/friends that we were safe as they celebrated Thanksgiving back home.
Friday brought little relief as the Mumbai nightmare continued. We completed our Fulbright work in the late afternoon and spent the rest of the day sightseeing. We headed to the Dada Hari Wav, or stepwells, built in 1499 by a woman of Sultan Begara's harem. After that, we headed to Sabarmati Ashram. Founded by Gandhi in 1915, he used this particular place as his headquarters. It was from here in 1930 that he set out on the famous Salt March in protest. The artifacts in the museum were fascinating and given the state of India at the moment, the message was quite necessary. We also hit the Law Garden market where everyone picked up some of the famous "mirror-work" fabric that is so well-known in Gujarat. Then back to the university to spend time socializing. The Mumbai Fulbrighters, myself included, were scheduled to head back very early in the morning. We were so unsure of what we were headed back to. It was a scary feeling. As we landed in Mumbai, we stuck together. All heading in different directions, we kept in touch until we had all reached our respective corners of the city. Mumbai felt different that morning, perhaps because it was insanely early, perhaps because there was a dark cloud overhead. I made it home and didn't stray far that day. In the evening, I went to dinner and was happy to feel secure in my neighborhood amongst my friends. Slowly, Mumbai will recover. This city has a spirit like no other!
Special thanks to Peter, Taiyaba, Karin, and Thomas for a bootleg cookie and whiskey adventure. I am glad we can put our Fulbright intelligence to good use. Taiyaba, I can't wait to read the novel, and I will be at the book release! Also to Bree, any time spent together is awesome. See you over the holiday.
I also thank Dr. Patzer, Dr. Donna, and so many of the other Fulbrighter Scholars that shared their amazing work and succcess stories. You have inspired me to keep pushing ahead.
Also, I say a prayer for Mumbai. So many people lost their lives in a completely horrific manner. This is a moment I will never forget in a country that means so much. Amen.
Backyard Playground
I am not sure why I say that any sort of travel is at a standstill when I just keep finding new places to explore. My last two adventures have pretty much taken place in my Mumbai backyard. There are amazing hillstations and beaches within a few hours drive of the city. I learned that many Mumbaikers take off for these destinations over the weekend to get away from the hectic city life.
First stop, Murud, on the Konkan Coast. This quiet fishing town was a spur of the moment choice for a getaway. Murud is about 100 or so miles south of Mumbai and traveling there is half the fun. Murud itself is a little beach village with many hotels and eateries, and little else. The goal is simply to relax. There is a fort to visit, Janjira, which sits just offshore, about 4 miles outside of town. I promised I wasn't going to visit any more forts, but I did lift my own ban just this once. Janjira was built by Siddi Jahor in 1140. The fort, or so I am told, is one of the few in the world that was never conquered. Aside from visiting the fort, the rest of the day was spent floating around the Arabian Sea and eating fresh coconut, not a bad way to spend the weekend, really!
The following weekend was spent away from the sea during a quick trip to Karnala. Again, this destination is only about an hour or so from Mumbai. Karnala is home to a bird sanctuary. I will use that term loosely as there are only about four birds there. It seems most of the birds have left due to pollution from Mumbai. I can't say I blame them. Aside from seeing these poor incarcerated birds, there is an amazing trail that leads to yet another fort if you are up for the very long climb up, up, up! I was up for the trek, but no idea exactly how high I would be going. I made it to the top, barring any fear of heights, saw yet another fort, and could not believe I actually had to climb all the way down, down, down. Ok, I am really done with forts now. There can't possibly be any left in India that I haven't seen....seriously.....!
In all, I have traveled this country extensively and was pleasantly surprised to find such adventure so close to home. Traveling to these destinations provided a further glimpse into Indian village life as we wandered in and out of many sleepy little towns. This, in my opinion, is the REAL India.
First stop, Murud, on the Konkan Coast. This quiet fishing town was a spur of the moment choice for a getaway. Murud is about 100 or so miles south of Mumbai and traveling there is half the fun. Murud itself is a little beach village with many hotels and eateries, and little else. The goal is simply to relax. There is a fort to visit, Janjira, which sits just offshore, about 4 miles outside of town. I promised I wasn't going to visit any more forts, but I did lift my own ban just this once. Janjira was built by Siddi Jahor in 1140. The fort, or so I am told, is one of the few in the world that was never conquered. Aside from visiting the fort, the rest of the day was spent floating around the Arabian Sea and eating fresh coconut, not a bad way to spend the weekend, really!
The following weekend was spent away from the sea during a quick trip to Karnala. Again, this destination is only about an hour or so from Mumbai. Karnala is home to a bird sanctuary. I will use that term loosely as there are only about four birds there. It seems most of the birds have left due to pollution from Mumbai. I can't say I blame them. Aside from seeing these poor incarcerated birds, there is an amazing trail that leads to yet another fort if you are up for the very long climb up, up, up! I was up for the trek, but no idea exactly how high I would be going. I made it to the top, barring any fear of heights, saw yet another fort, and could not believe I actually had to climb all the way down, down, down. Ok, I am really done with forts now. There can't possibly be any left in India that I haven't seen....seriously.....!
In all, I have traveled this country extensively and was pleasantly surprised to find such adventure so close to home. Traveling to these destinations provided a further glimpse into Indian village life as we wandered in and out of many sleepy little towns. This, in my opinion, is the REAL India.
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