The Heart of the Hindu World-Varanasi

Just when I thought the final leg of the so-called Amazing Race was complete, there was a late addition and a new player. The final segment included a trip to Varanasi with Bree! No rest in India as there is just too much to see. Bree and I decided that this would need to be a quick trip, and quick it was, but we had to see this amazing city before we left India. Varanasi, previously named Benares, is considered to be the oldest city in the world. It is also the holiest place in India where many Hindu pilgrims come to bathe in the Ganges River or to cremate their loved ones.

Bree and I arrived early Saturday afternoon. She had arranged for a friend of a friend from Delhi to pick us up and help us get settled. After leaving the airport, we took a tour of the city, and stopped for tea at the friend's home. We were, once again, treated with the outstanding hospitality this country continues to shower upon its guests. After tea, we found our hotel, the Puja Guest House located on the Lalita Ghat, near the Nepali temple. Varanasi sits on the western bank of the Ganges and is surrounded by many ghats, (about 80) or bathing areas. Beyond the ghats, the streets are a maze of very small alleys that are not well marked and can be completely confusing for any visitor. These alleys are bustling, full of people, livestock, small businesses, etc. and get crowded QUICKLY!

After getting settled in our room, we went to the roof top restaurant to relax and plan our course of action. From the roof, we had an excellent view of the river. To the right was the main ghat, Daasawamedh, and to our left was the main buring ghat, Manikarnika. As the sun was beginning to set, we headed off to the main ghat to see the much talked about "ganga aarti" ceremony that takes place both at sunset and sunrise. The puja is performed by seven priests (Brahma) who offer respect to the river. When we arrived, the ghat was packed with people taking part in this holy ceremony. Many people were floating lit candles and flowers into the river. The crowd was intense. Everyone was participating in the ceremony on some level. On the outskirts of the crowd was the most "colorful" group of people I have seen yet in India. It was truly a one of a kind people-watching experience.

After the ceremony, Bree and I headed up the steps and into the more public shopping/dining area. We spent some time walking around and then decided to find a restaurant that we had been told about. We hired a cycle rickshaw to take us around, as this is the most convenient method of transportation in Varanasi. Sadly, by the time we found the restaurant, it was closed. We asked our driver to take us back toward the hotel. We assumed he knew where he was going, but alas, he did not. After driving around for an hour, we were completely lost and it was LATE! After stopping to ask for directions many, many times, we finally ditched our driver and in a typically "Indian" moment, a young man offered to go completely out of his way to walk us back to the hotel. Now, Bree and I both know that this goes against every "girls out alone at night" rule, but what to do?? We were stuck. This was truly a leap of faith, and thankfully all turned out perfectly. He simply walked us to the hotel door, said "namaste" and walked off. We would have never found our way back without this person's help. Again, a true Indian hospitality moment.

The next morning, we headed back to the aforementioned restaurant for breakfast. The Bread of Life Bakery is owned by an American and offered true American pancakes with maple syrup. Most of you are saying, big deal, pancakes with syrup, right??? Trust me, big deal, and they were awesome! After breakfast, we decided to take a trip down the Ganges. Both walking and boating along the Ganges gives one a whole new perspective of India. People were bathing in the water, doing their laundry, offering blessings, herding animals for a drink/bath, and so much more! It was a lot to take in. The final leg of our boat trip brought us in front of Manikarnika, the burning ghat. This was truly a sight to behold. All around the ghat were stacks and stacks of wood. I can't even begin to describe the insanely high and vast piles. So many people were running to and fro and there were bodies shrouded in cloth and flowers waiting for cremation. Each body is dipped in the Ganges prior to cremation. It was intense to say the least. We were told that the ghat operates 24/7 for cremation purposes. Varanasi is considered an auspicious (there is that word again) place to die. According to our sources, expiring here offers "moksha," liberation from the cycle of birth and death. It is probably the one place on earth where one can witness the extremely personal acts of death and worship, all in a very public manner. To say that Varanasi is overwhelming and intense is a gross understatement.

After our boat ride, we met Bree's friend, and his nephew, once again for a final tour of the city and then off to the airport once more. On our way out of town, they insisted we stop for a quick tour of a few more temples on the outskirts of town. Bree and I finally made it to the airport, said our good-byes and headed back to our respective Indian cities. We both decided that seeing Varanasi puts India in a whole new perspecive. It was a true educational experience. And, of course, any time spent with Bree is an absolute adventure. It is a wonder the two of us get ANYTHING accomplished. Together, we are deadly. As always, a true pleasure Bree!! I can't wait until our next mission! No more monkey comments, please!

So, now I am back in Mumbai. I think I will stay put for a few weeks anyway. The next big adventure is the Fulbright conference that takes place at the end of this month in Ahmedabad, Gujarat. Together once again, the Fulbrighters. I am sure we ALL have many tales to tell!