Ok, so yes, I finally added a picture to my blog...I know, one picture?? Look, I am trying ok? I am not exactly dripping in tech. skills and I have had some internet issues, so hang in there. Maybe, I will surprise you with some more pictures this week....be patient. Thank you.
First of all, a special thanks to Aruna for helping get the internet data card squared away. You are wonderful and I so appreciate ALL your help. Because of you, I know can take my internet anywhere!
In other news, Ganesha has been over for about 2 weeks now, but fear not, there is never much time to rest before another festival is on the horizon. This week is full of reasons to celebrate. First, we have the beginning of Navratri on the 30th. Navratri, or "nine nights" is a countdown to Dussehra, "the tenth day," on which Lord Rama killed the demon Ravana. The celebration consists of nine nights of dancing, all night long, I am told. It is customary for couples to hold decorated batons while they are dancing. In some cases, it is one of the few times that young girls and boys are allowed to mix unsupervised by their parents.
During Navratri, Durga Puja begins. What Ganesha is to Mumbai, Durga is to Kolkata (Calcutta). Durga, the warrior goddess, dressed in red, and mounted on a lion, signifies the victory of good over evil. Many idols will be placed around the city for various puja events. I have already seen many of them in the preparation stages. I am told the next "nine nights" are going to be a little nuts around here!
This week also kicks off exams at Somaiya College, Thursday, October 2, is Gandhi's birthday, a country-wide holiday, and Friday is Eid, an Islamic holiday that marks the end of Ramzan (or Ramadan) the month of fasting. As you can see, India is BUSY! All of this, of course, leading up to Diwali (later in October). I have already bought myself a Diwali present. Isn't amazing how quickly I adapt?? Any reason to buy myself a present...any reason at all....!
Other than all of this celebrating, not much else is going on. I am planning a trip to Goa with Breanna, a Fulbrighter in Delhi. We are going on October 10th. We are both excited. Goa appears to be the sort-of Key West of India. There are lovely beaches and nightlife if you are looking for that sort of thing. Goa was a big hippie mecca during the 60's and there is still quite a counter-culture there. It is also a popular spot for an Indian getaway. Details to follow on this adventure.....
That is the current update. I am working on the picture "thing," and I am happy to hear the Buckeyes looked a little better this week. Until next time....chalo!
Sunday, September 28, 2008
Tuesday, September 23, 2008
Mother Mary, Trains, and the American Embassy
You know you have been in India too long when the fingertips of your right hand are curry stained and your head is ever so slightly starting to nod side to side for yes, versus up and down....the side to side nod is almost a necessity lest everyone think you are saying no all the time.
Aside from those slight observations, I apologize for the delay in blog update. I have been very busy and I will tell you all about it! This past weekend started off like any other thus far, but ended with a true Indian adventure. On Sat. I left college early with Renu, (surprise, surprise) to head back to Bandra for the final day of the Mount Mary Festival. I had gone the week before with Andrea and it was a lovely, peaceful, not so very crowded experience, not this time, however. As soon as Renu and I made our way into Bandra, I knew it wasn't going to be good. I had never seen so many people in my life. The place was jam packed with people. Literally, there was a line over half a mile long and 10 people wide to get into this church. People were carrying all sorts of "offerings" to leave for Mother Mary, flowers, candles, wax statues, you name it. It was insane, people pushing and shoving just to get inside. Once inside, there were nuns holding huge plastic tubs to collect all the offerings. I am not sure just how many Mother Mary got, but it was something to see. Renu said it best when she said, "so many Christians today, there weren't this many in Mumbai yesterday??! After that nightmare, we went to eat on Hill Rd. in Bandra and met up with Annie, Renu's amazing daughter. We all then went to see "Rock On," the Bollywood rock and roll movie....not bad considering I didn't understand anything. The music was great, but I can't sing along.
On Sunday, I went to the gym per usual and my friend Vasanti was there. She suggested we finish our "gym program" (love the lingo here) and have a true Indian adventure. I was game. She said first stop Sion, but we had to take the TRAIN! Now, up to this point, no one has allowed me to go on the train. Most people I spend time with are not train-goers. Allegedly, you are not a true "Indian" until you navigate the train system, so why not. We bought our tickets and stood in line for the "ladies" coach. Ladies only in this car. I see why now. The crowd of ladies behind me was starting to grow and I could see Vasanti getting nervous. She kept saying, if we don't make it on, we will just wait for the next train. I was like, uh, ok...why wouldn't we get on? The train pulls up and holy crap, the pushing, scratching, shoving, climbing, I don't even know what else, began before the train even stopped. I had NEVER in my entire life fought so hard to get into one place. It was absolutely insane. As the train starts to pull away, people are hanging on for life, just trying to find a place to stand and breathe. There was no room. I was like, no way, this isn't for me! We, by the grace of God, made it to Sion.....Sion is in the heart of the Dharavi slum, the largest slum in Asia. Up and down the streets of Sion are leather stores, one after another...little bitty shops that sell mostly the same thing. Most all of the leather work comes directly out of the slum and is shipped all over the world. We stopped in a few shops. At the last shop, I tried on a coat or two, (c'mon, you would have too) and I didn't see anything that I loved....alas, don't see something you like, well then you can have something custom made right there in a day! All for $37, yep I said thirty-seven dollars US, I designed my own leather jacket tailored to fit, sketched it out, took pieces parts from other jackets until I had it just right! I couldn't believe it. The jacket is great, but the sport of it was the real thrill!
After leaving Sion, we headed to Mantunga for some Pav Bhaji, this week's favorite food, and then back on the train to Coloba. This time, the train was empty! Thankjesus......and also the whole way back home, empty train. It was an adventure to say the least! It is a cheap way to travel, but I am not sure at what cost really?? It is moments like the Mount Mary Fest. and the train that I realize how big this city is. There are just people stacked and stacked and stacked on top of each other all the time.
Monday night, I went to the American Embassy for a cocktail "thing." The embassy is located in the Breach Candy area of Mumbai, a swanky neighborhood near the Haji Ali temple. The Cadbury family (yes, the "thanks Easter Bunny" egg people) have a high rise there. The embassy itself sort of looks like a metal temple-thing from the road, but once inside the many, many layers, it is a beautiful sort of colonial-type mansion. I took Renu (surprise, surprise) with me. We had drinks and appetizers with the General Consulate and his wife, many other cultural affairs people, some vistitng professors and some other Fulbrighters there for educational work, not teachers, more like students so to speak. It was great. I met some awesome people and was invited back, we all were, for an "American" style bbq this Saturday. I think I just may go. It isn't often one "hangs out" at the embassy, I suppose. I will spend all your tax dollars wisely folks.
In all, everything is moving along in Mumbai. Time is going very quickly now. It is still dang hot, I am done with that really and October is going to be hotter still.....grrrr......! So, with a slight nod of my head side to side...I will "make a move" (more great lingo)!
Aside from those slight observations, I apologize for the delay in blog update. I have been very busy and I will tell you all about it! This past weekend started off like any other thus far, but ended with a true Indian adventure. On Sat. I left college early with Renu, (surprise, surprise) to head back to Bandra for the final day of the Mount Mary Festival. I had gone the week before with Andrea and it was a lovely, peaceful, not so very crowded experience, not this time, however. As soon as Renu and I made our way into Bandra, I knew it wasn't going to be good. I had never seen so many people in my life. The place was jam packed with people. Literally, there was a line over half a mile long and 10 people wide to get into this church. People were carrying all sorts of "offerings" to leave for Mother Mary, flowers, candles, wax statues, you name it. It was insane, people pushing and shoving just to get inside. Once inside, there were nuns holding huge plastic tubs to collect all the offerings. I am not sure just how many Mother Mary got, but it was something to see. Renu said it best when she said, "so many Christians today, there weren't this many in Mumbai yesterday??! After that nightmare, we went to eat on Hill Rd. in Bandra and met up with Annie, Renu's amazing daughter. We all then went to see "Rock On," the Bollywood rock and roll movie....not bad considering I didn't understand anything. The music was great, but I can't sing along.
On Sunday, I went to the gym per usual and my friend Vasanti was there. She suggested we finish our "gym program" (love the lingo here) and have a true Indian adventure. I was game. She said first stop Sion, but we had to take the TRAIN! Now, up to this point, no one has allowed me to go on the train. Most people I spend time with are not train-goers. Allegedly, you are not a true "Indian" until you navigate the train system, so why not. We bought our tickets and stood in line for the "ladies" coach. Ladies only in this car. I see why now. The crowd of ladies behind me was starting to grow and I could see Vasanti getting nervous. She kept saying, if we don't make it on, we will just wait for the next train. I was like, uh, ok...why wouldn't we get on? The train pulls up and holy crap, the pushing, scratching, shoving, climbing, I don't even know what else, began before the train even stopped. I had NEVER in my entire life fought so hard to get into one place. It was absolutely insane. As the train starts to pull away, people are hanging on for life, just trying to find a place to stand and breathe. There was no room. I was like, no way, this isn't for me! We, by the grace of God, made it to Sion.....Sion is in the heart of the Dharavi slum, the largest slum in Asia. Up and down the streets of Sion are leather stores, one after another...little bitty shops that sell mostly the same thing. Most all of the leather work comes directly out of the slum and is shipped all over the world. We stopped in a few shops. At the last shop, I tried on a coat or two, (c'mon, you would have too) and I didn't see anything that I loved....alas, don't see something you like, well then you can have something custom made right there in a day! All for $37, yep I said thirty-seven dollars US, I designed my own leather jacket tailored to fit, sketched it out, took pieces parts from other jackets until I had it just right! I couldn't believe it. The jacket is great, but the sport of it was the real thrill!
After leaving Sion, we headed to Mantunga for some Pav Bhaji, this week's favorite food, and then back on the train to Coloba. This time, the train was empty! Thankjesus......and also the whole way back home, empty train. It was an adventure to say the least! It is a cheap way to travel, but I am not sure at what cost really?? It is moments like the Mount Mary Fest. and the train that I realize how big this city is. There are just people stacked and stacked and stacked on top of each other all the time.
Monday night, I went to the American Embassy for a cocktail "thing." The embassy is located in the Breach Candy area of Mumbai, a swanky neighborhood near the Haji Ali temple. The Cadbury family (yes, the "thanks Easter Bunny" egg people) have a high rise there. The embassy itself sort of looks like a metal temple-thing from the road, but once inside the many, many layers, it is a beautiful sort of colonial-type mansion. I took Renu (surprise, surprise) with me. We had drinks and appetizers with the General Consulate and his wife, many other cultural affairs people, some vistitng professors and some other Fulbrighters there for educational work, not teachers, more like students so to speak. It was great. I met some awesome people and was invited back, we all were, for an "American" style bbq this Saturday. I think I just may go. It isn't often one "hangs out" at the embassy, I suppose. I will spend all your tax dollars wisely folks.
In all, everything is moving along in Mumbai. Time is going very quickly now. It is still dang hot, I am done with that really and October is going to be hotter still.....grrrr......! So, with a slight nod of my head side to side...I will "make a move" (more great lingo)!
Wednesday, September 17, 2008
Auspicious India and other Nonsense...
What is more fun than riding in a rikshaw during a monsoon?? Nothing folks, absolutely nothing....Good Lord, I am drowning over here. When I first arrived, I thought monsoon season, what is the big deal?? It barely rained, maybe once a day for about 15 minutes....no worse than spring in Ohio, or any season in Ohio, for the matter....! Ok, now I get it. The monsoon is coming to a close and is clearly making up for lost time. The rain is one thing, but the mold combined with pollution is another. I swear everything I own is moldly and nothing is really ever dry. I can't stand to be DAMP, hate it....grrr....ok, just a few more weeks and I am told it is over. But, then make way for October heat. Just as I am craving crisp fall nights, I am gearing up for more heat. At least half of October will be spent north and in the Himalayas. Sigh, ah, India....
Also worth noting is the word "auspicious." I have heard that word more in a month than I have heard in my whole life. It seems everything in India is auspicious. I knew what the word meant, but I still looked it up again to make sure I had it right....to promise success, favored by fortune, opportune....etc. For example, married women in Maharastra (the state where Mumbai is located, but you should all know that by now!) wear emerald green glass bangles because they are auspicious. However, Bengali women on the other side of the country (Calcutta area) wear red and white glass bangles because that is auspicious to them. Peacocks, the country bird, are auspicious. Flowers are auspicious, very auspicious. One of the things I have grown to love about India are the amazing flower garlands that can be purchased on ANY street corner stand. They are amazing garlands strewn with marigolds, jasmine (pronounced jazmeen here) Gerber daisies, and other greenery. The garlands hang EVERYWHERE, over doorways, around religious idols, on trucks, cars, rikshaws and even COWS. Yes, the cows are sometimes delightfully decorated. Of course, all of this to ensure good fortune. Diamonds are auspicious, so I should probably get some more, huh? I will work on that....! Random days on the calendar can be auspicious as well, but you never seem to know which ones until the day has started, well, at least I don't. For example, one might be told not to do any sort of business transaction on a certain day because it is unlucky, or may be told to purchase something on a different day because it is lucky. This can often be frustrating for foreign business people who are trying to close a deal. They may have to wait until all the "stars" are aligned to get a signature! I often ask, how can SO many things be SO auspicious? No one seems to know. I just roll with it....and continue to admire the flower garlands. Those alone will stick in my mind long after I leave here.
What else....I am starting a drama club. We had our first meeting yesterday. There were about 50 people. I was thrilled, but that is a lot of people to consider when choosing a script. I can't possibly use everyone, so I need to figure all this out quickly. My goal is to put up a show right before I leave here and hopefully the club will continue to be in place after I leave. I am searching high and low for a good script, but not coming up with much. I will persevere....until next time, I hope everyone is great and that my peeps in C-bus have their power back....yikes, what a nightmare!
Also worth noting is the word "auspicious." I have heard that word more in a month than I have heard in my whole life. It seems everything in India is auspicious. I knew what the word meant, but I still looked it up again to make sure I had it right....to promise success, favored by fortune, opportune....etc. For example, married women in Maharastra (the state where Mumbai is located, but you should all know that by now!) wear emerald green glass bangles because they are auspicious. However, Bengali women on the other side of the country (Calcutta area) wear red and white glass bangles because that is auspicious to them. Peacocks, the country bird, are auspicious. Flowers are auspicious, very auspicious. One of the things I have grown to love about India are the amazing flower garlands that can be purchased on ANY street corner stand. They are amazing garlands strewn with marigolds, jasmine (pronounced jazmeen here) Gerber daisies, and other greenery. The garlands hang EVERYWHERE, over doorways, around religious idols, on trucks, cars, rikshaws and even COWS. Yes, the cows are sometimes delightfully decorated. Of course, all of this to ensure good fortune. Diamonds are auspicious, so I should probably get some more, huh? I will work on that....! Random days on the calendar can be auspicious as well, but you never seem to know which ones until the day has started, well, at least I don't. For example, one might be told not to do any sort of business transaction on a certain day because it is unlucky, or may be told to purchase something on a different day because it is lucky. This can often be frustrating for foreign business people who are trying to close a deal. They may have to wait until all the "stars" are aligned to get a signature! I often ask, how can SO many things be SO auspicious? No one seems to know. I just roll with it....and continue to admire the flower garlands. Those alone will stick in my mind long after I leave here.
What else....I am starting a drama club. We had our first meeting yesterday. There were about 50 people. I was thrilled, but that is a lot of people to consider when choosing a script. I can't possibly use everyone, so I need to figure all this out quickly. My goal is to put up a show right before I leave here and hopefully the club will continue to be in place after I leave. I am searching high and low for a good script, but not coming up with much. I will persevere....until next time, I hope everyone is great and that my peeps in C-bus have their power back....yikes, what a nightmare!
Monday, September 15, 2008
Painting the town hot PINK! (The longest blog ever!)
Uh, I don't even no where to begin....most of you know that my friend Andrea flew in from Calcutta this weekend. (She is a also a Fulbright Scholar, from Santa Fe, NM). She and I met in DC at orientation and have kept in touch all along. Anyway, she flew in Friday night and we hit the ground running first thing Sat. morning.
Early Sat. morning we had to be at my college for a literary presentation. She also met some of my colleagues and saw Somaiya college. I had hired a car and driver for the day, so right after the presentation we headed downtown to the Colaba Causeway area. On the way, we asked the driver to stop at Haji Ali, a mosque that sits on a little island just outside of Worli (a suburb near downtown). The masjid, or mosque, sits off the coast and can only be reached by a very long walkway during low tide. Haji Ali was allegedly a wealthy businessman who renounced his riches after a pilgrimage to Mecca. He supposedly drowned in the exact spot where the mosque is built. After leaving Haji Ali, we headed toward Marine Dr. and Chowpatty Beach. We took a quick look around there and went to find our cheap, but quite lovely, hotel.
From the hotel, we walked, shopped, walked and shopped some more. Both Andrea and I splurged on some great jewelry, of course! We then went to eat at Leopold's and had some BEERS! I am now a fan of Tiger Ale. After eating, Andrea needed to find an internet cafe to take care of a housing issue she is having. We found an internet cafe....well, you could call it that...! We had to travel down a dark hallway, and up two very seedy flights of stairs to what I assume is someone's attic??? Alas, they had computers that worked and we made it out alive....!
Next stop, night life...so we found a bar....and including us, I think every continent was represented....we met students from Africa, Indians, obviously, and some UK folks....I am not sure who else...but it was a trip. The music was American hip hop (mixed with a little Indian beat) and we had no problem meeting people....it was quite a people-watching adventure. We left the bar about 1230am. Walking back to the hotel presented a different side off India. Many people, whole families rather, sleeping on sidewalks. We were asked to buy drugs several times. It was a little freaky. Luckily, one of the Indian guys we had been talking to was walking ahead and waited for us. He made sure we didn't get harrassed, and he got us back to the hotel safely. (Thanks Karan!) It is moments like that when you realize how vulnerable you are!
We woke up early Saturday morning because we wanted to catch the first ferry to Elephanta Caves. Andrea left the room first to scope out a breakfast "joint." Nothing opens early in India fyi! She found a Lebanese restaurant that had "omelets." She ordered, and I met her there. We were the only people in the place, well, unless you count the RAT! Yep, I said RAT! Halfway through our "omelets" we noticed our furry friend walking along the cash register counter....we looked at each other and sighed...ah, India....then Rat's friend mouse showed up..then we left....! Gross. So from now on, we make sure to ask if the rat is included or if we pay extra for that! Just checking....
We made it to the "ferry" (and I use that term loosely) by 930 and by 1030, we pulled up to the dock of Elephanta Island. The island is inhabited by about 1200 Indian residents who rely solely on tourism. There is no electricty and the water is funneled into wells during the monsoon and will serve as the drinking water supply. We hired a guide (about $8 US) and walked toward the caves. Inside the caves, there are 9 panels depicting the various forms of Shiva. The are amazing! The caves were carved by Hindi priests that inhabited the island many, many years ago. When the Portugese arrived, they killed many of the priests and used the caves/panels for target practice. In some cases, arms, hands or other parts of the carving have been shot off, save for the largest panel showing the three faces of Shiva. This panel had been hidden behind a secret wall and was found much later. At this point, the heavens had opened up and we were getting soaked trying to get back to the boat. I forgot to mention that the island is inhabited by monkeys....yes, monkeys. They are crafty suckers and you have to watch yourself. I saw a poor Asian man get into a tussle with a monkey who was trying to snatch his bag! Wow, ah, India. None the less, they are cute as can be....from a distance! On the trek back to the "ferry" we bought grilled ears of corn from a sweet Indian lady. The corn was grilled and rubbed with lime juice! Yum! I suggest you grilling folks try that out! As we boarded the ferry, the rains started again. It made for a very bumpy, very WET ride home. When we got back to the Gateway of India, we were drenched, head to toe....ah, India!
Our original plan was to stay in the Chowpatty Beach area Sunday evening to watch the immersions of Ganesha. Sunday was the final day of the festival. We thought better of it because they were closing major roads and we knew we would never get back to my apartment if we stayed. I assured Andrea there would be immersions around my house. We made it back to my apartment by 630 and sure enough, the streets were alive. There were thousands of people dancing and drumming in the streets. They were all following behind huge, decorated trucks carrying the many, many Ganesha idols to the water. At first we walked along the sidewalk taking pictures. The next thing I knew we were dancing in the street. The Indian people were so thrilled that we wanted to be part of their celebration that they made sure we walked with them FOR HOURS! It was intense. Not only was the celebration intense, but at some points along the way, Andrea and I drew a far bigger crowd than the idols. People surrounded us and just stared. No, really, made giant circles around us.....most just wanted to be near us, to talk, whatever. That got to be a little much. There were firecrackers exploding every few feet and people were throwing handfuls of this hot pink powder all over the place. We were covered in it. Head to toe, hot pink....pink is apparently an auspicious color....more about all the things that are auspicious in India later! That is a blog entry in itself! We were able to get the hot pick off of our skin and mostly off of our clothes, save for the blond part of my hair. Yep, it is pink now....I cannot get it out. As if people didn't stare before......
Monday morning arrived and we headed to Bandra for the Festival of Virgin Mary. We spent some time in this little Catholic enclave. I, of course, bought some tacky idols and whatnot. We found some salad and pasta for lunch, not Indian food, yea, and then Andrea headed to the airport. We are both EXHAUSTED!! In all, it was an amazing weekend. We really left no stone unturned in Mumbai and pink hair to boot..... Andrea, thanks, it was a BLAST! I won't forget "a side of rat, phallic yellow balloons, what are you laughing at, I have no idea," and the other 200 things I can't remember right now because I am too tired.....see you in Jaipur!
Early Sat. morning we had to be at my college for a literary presentation. She also met some of my colleagues and saw Somaiya college. I had hired a car and driver for the day, so right after the presentation we headed downtown to the Colaba Causeway area. On the way, we asked the driver to stop at Haji Ali, a mosque that sits on a little island just outside of Worli (a suburb near downtown). The masjid, or mosque, sits off the coast and can only be reached by a very long walkway during low tide. Haji Ali was allegedly a wealthy businessman who renounced his riches after a pilgrimage to Mecca. He supposedly drowned in the exact spot where the mosque is built. After leaving Haji Ali, we headed toward Marine Dr. and Chowpatty Beach. We took a quick look around there and went to find our cheap, but quite lovely, hotel.
From the hotel, we walked, shopped, walked and shopped some more. Both Andrea and I splurged on some great jewelry, of course! We then went to eat at Leopold's and had some BEERS! I am now a fan of Tiger Ale. After eating, Andrea needed to find an internet cafe to take care of a housing issue she is having. We found an internet cafe....well, you could call it that...! We had to travel down a dark hallway, and up two very seedy flights of stairs to what I assume is someone's attic??? Alas, they had computers that worked and we made it out alive....!
Next stop, night life...so we found a bar....and including us, I think every continent was represented....we met students from Africa, Indians, obviously, and some UK folks....I am not sure who else...but it was a trip. The music was American hip hop (mixed with a little Indian beat) and we had no problem meeting people....it was quite a people-watching adventure. We left the bar about 1230am. Walking back to the hotel presented a different side off India. Many people, whole families rather, sleeping on sidewalks. We were asked to buy drugs several times. It was a little freaky. Luckily, one of the Indian guys we had been talking to was walking ahead and waited for us. He made sure we didn't get harrassed, and he got us back to the hotel safely. (Thanks Karan!) It is moments like that when you realize how vulnerable you are!
We woke up early Saturday morning because we wanted to catch the first ferry to Elephanta Caves. Andrea left the room first to scope out a breakfast "joint." Nothing opens early in India fyi! She found a Lebanese restaurant that had "omelets." She ordered, and I met her there. We were the only people in the place, well, unless you count the RAT! Yep, I said RAT! Halfway through our "omelets" we noticed our furry friend walking along the cash register counter....we looked at each other and sighed...ah, India....then Rat's friend mouse showed up..then we left....! Gross. So from now on, we make sure to ask if the rat is included or if we pay extra for that! Just checking....
We made it to the "ferry" (and I use that term loosely) by 930 and by 1030, we pulled up to the dock of Elephanta Island. The island is inhabited by about 1200 Indian residents who rely solely on tourism. There is no electricty and the water is funneled into wells during the monsoon and will serve as the drinking water supply. We hired a guide (about $8 US) and walked toward the caves. Inside the caves, there are 9 panels depicting the various forms of Shiva. The are amazing! The caves were carved by Hindi priests that inhabited the island many, many years ago. When the Portugese arrived, they killed many of the priests and used the caves/panels for target practice. In some cases, arms, hands or other parts of the carving have been shot off, save for the largest panel showing the three faces of Shiva. This panel had been hidden behind a secret wall and was found much later. At this point, the heavens had opened up and we were getting soaked trying to get back to the boat. I forgot to mention that the island is inhabited by monkeys....yes, monkeys. They are crafty suckers and you have to watch yourself. I saw a poor Asian man get into a tussle with a monkey who was trying to snatch his bag! Wow, ah, India. None the less, they are cute as can be....from a distance! On the trek back to the "ferry" we bought grilled ears of corn from a sweet Indian lady. The corn was grilled and rubbed with lime juice! Yum! I suggest you grilling folks try that out! As we boarded the ferry, the rains started again. It made for a very bumpy, very WET ride home. When we got back to the Gateway of India, we were drenched, head to toe....ah, India!
Our original plan was to stay in the Chowpatty Beach area Sunday evening to watch the immersions of Ganesha. Sunday was the final day of the festival. We thought better of it because they were closing major roads and we knew we would never get back to my apartment if we stayed. I assured Andrea there would be immersions around my house. We made it back to my apartment by 630 and sure enough, the streets were alive. There were thousands of people dancing and drumming in the streets. They were all following behind huge, decorated trucks carrying the many, many Ganesha idols to the water. At first we walked along the sidewalk taking pictures. The next thing I knew we were dancing in the street. The Indian people were so thrilled that we wanted to be part of their celebration that they made sure we walked with them FOR HOURS! It was intense. Not only was the celebration intense, but at some points along the way, Andrea and I drew a far bigger crowd than the idols. People surrounded us and just stared. No, really, made giant circles around us.....most just wanted to be near us, to talk, whatever. That got to be a little much. There were firecrackers exploding every few feet and people were throwing handfuls of this hot pink powder all over the place. We were covered in it. Head to toe, hot pink....pink is apparently an auspicious color....more about all the things that are auspicious in India later! That is a blog entry in itself! We were able to get the hot pick off of our skin and mostly off of our clothes, save for the blond part of my hair. Yep, it is pink now....I cannot get it out. As if people didn't stare before......
Monday morning arrived and we headed to Bandra for the Festival of Virgin Mary. We spent some time in this little Catholic enclave. I, of course, bought some tacky idols and whatnot. We found some salad and pasta for lunch, not Indian food, yea, and then Andrea headed to the airport. We are both EXHAUSTED!! In all, it was an amazing weekend. We really left no stone unturned in Mumbai and pink hair to boot..... Andrea, thanks, it was a BLAST! I won't forget "a side of rat, phallic yellow balloons, what are you laughing at, I have no idea," and the other 200 things I can't remember right now because I am too tired.....see you in Jaipur!
Wednesday, September 10, 2008
Month One and the Like...
So, I had my first Indian massage today....wow, a little different than I am used to. In America, you are draped with a sheet/towel, something...not here....In America, some areas are "off limits"....not here. Geez....It was pretty much two young girls, a bowl of warm olive oil and this wooden table ( not sure what kind of wood, but smelled amazing)...and just check any bodily insecurities at the door. Ok, so enough about that....TMI, I know.
Last night, I was invited to spend the evening with Shanthala's HUM group, an amazing group of women who meet monthly and discuss books, music, or share some sort of cultural theme. The theme they shared with me was all about Ganesha. Each person was asked to share some music or a story about Ganesha and his role/importance in India. I learned a lot more about this revered God and was showered with lovely gifts reflecting the night's theme. I now have all the tools I need to have a "home altar" of my own, including kum kum! The food was awesome. I say that a lot, I know, but, so true. The appetizer was a glass of, get this, freshly squeezed white roses. No really, rose extract solely. I can't help but wonder how many roses it took to make a glass?? As I was drinking it, I kept thinking, I know this smell....sure enough, I did. The rose extract was brought from the northern state of Rajasthan. Such a treat.
In all, it has been a month since I left Columbus for India. When I arrived, I thought time would never pass, and now it is going too quickly. I have so much I still want to see/do. At this point, my life has a sense of routine here. I am thankful for the gym, where I feel so at home, and for the trainers who are keeping this amazing food from "sticking around!" I am thoroughly enjoying the lectures and the students. The students at Somaiya college are wonderfully intelligent, polite and are sooooo focused on their own success. They are teaching me far more than I am teaching them, I am certain. I am thankful for my mentors, who are no longer mentors, but close friends. Renu and Savita make each day so easy, and FUN! And yes, I will return when the first of Renu's children is married. I am not missing an Indian wedding, no way! I am also thankful for the wonderful friends that Shanthala has "organized" for me to make my stay full of adventure and wonderful activities. There are things I miss about home, sure, but in the grand scheme of things they are the simple conveniences that we all take for granted. There will be time enough for those later. The things I am getting used to however, are endless....I haven't done laundry, cleaned, ironed, cooked, had to drive anywhere (though I miss that a little), set an alarm clock, or even carried my own groceries to the door in a month. Heck, I barely even work!!! It is amazing when you take the day to day "stuff" out of life, how much time you have for yourself! Needless to say, I am well-rested! With that said, I have a lot to look forward to still in the next three months. Andrea and I have our travel plans set for heading north during late October. We will start in Jaipur, Rajasthan and end in the hill station of Darjeeling. I am excited to see the north of India, from the desert to the Himalayans. My asst. principal, Sharon, is coming for a visit in mid-October (the 15th), and she will be here for 10 days. I plan to take her to southern India. She said she is coming to see if India really does change a person. She asked me had I changed?? I said, I am not sure how much you will change in 10 days, but I have changed thus far in the sense that I now know there is nothing I can't do alone! Amen!
Last night, I was invited to spend the evening with Shanthala's HUM group, an amazing group of women who meet monthly and discuss books, music, or share some sort of cultural theme. The theme they shared with me was all about Ganesha. Each person was asked to share some music or a story about Ganesha and his role/importance in India. I learned a lot more about this revered God and was showered with lovely gifts reflecting the night's theme. I now have all the tools I need to have a "home altar" of my own, including kum kum! The food was awesome. I say that a lot, I know, but, so true. The appetizer was a glass of, get this, freshly squeezed white roses. No really, rose extract solely. I can't help but wonder how many roses it took to make a glass?? As I was drinking it, I kept thinking, I know this smell....sure enough, I did. The rose extract was brought from the northern state of Rajasthan. Such a treat.
In all, it has been a month since I left Columbus for India. When I arrived, I thought time would never pass, and now it is going too quickly. I have so much I still want to see/do. At this point, my life has a sense of routine here. I am thankful for the gym, where I feel so at home, and for the trainers who are keeping this amazing food from "sticking around!" I am thoroughly enjoying the lectures and the students. The students at Somaiya college are wonderfully intelligent, polite and are sooooo focused on their own success. They are teaching me far more than I am teaching them, I am certain. I am thankful for my mentors, who are no longer mentors, but close friends. Renu and Savita make each day so easy, and FUN! And yes, I will return when the first of Renu's children is married. I am not missing an Indian wedding, no way! I am also thankful for the wonderful friends that Shanthala has "organized" for me to make my stay full of adventure and wonderful activities. There are things I miss about home, sure, but in the grand scheme of things they are the simple conveniences that we all take for granted. There will be time enough for those later. The things I am getting used to however, are endless....I haven't done laundry, cleaned, ironed, cooked, had to drive anywhere (though I miss that a little), set an alarm clock, or even carried my own groceries to the door in a month. Heck, I barely even work!!! It is amazing when you take the day to day "stuff" out of life, how much time you have for yourself! Needless to say, I am well-rested! With that said, I have a lot to look forward to still in the next three months. Andrea and I have our travel plans set for heading north during late October. We will start in Jaipur, Rajasthan and end in the hill station of Darjeeling. I am excited to see the north of India, from the desert to the Himalayans. My asst. principal, Sharon, is coming for a visit in mid-October (the 15th), and she will be here for 10 days. I plan to take her to southern India. She said she is coming to see if India really does change a person. She asked me had I changed?? I said, I am not sure how much you will change in 10 days, but I have changed thus far in the sense that I now know there is nothing I can't do alone! Amen!
Monday, September 8, 2008
Golden Jubilee Kickoff and Update....
Sunday evening kicked off the Somaiya College 50 year Golden Jubilee Celebration. The principal had asked that staff be present and had asked that I be there as well. The college was beautifully decorated for the kickoff event. All the walkways were lit up and draped with gold fabric. There were also fountains and statues of Ganesha everywhere. The first event kicking off the Jubilee celebration was a book release, an autobiography of the founder's life. The founder, Mr. Somaiya, was a "self-made" man earning his fortune in the sugar industry (still thriving and being run by his son/grandson) in India. The presentation was held in the assembly hall of the engineering college and many family members, and the like, were present. It was a lovely event despite the fact that the WHOLE three hour presentation was in Gujarati....! That is a long time to sit and listen to speeches that sound like blah, blah, blah, blah.....at hour 2 1/2, I looked at Renu and said..."I am slowly going insane, I am going outside." After crawling over 10 people, I made it out the door. I looked back long enough to see Renu (in a sari, of course) crawling over the same people to escape as well. Needless to say, we were the first in line for the post-celebration dinner!
On the way home after the celebration, the streets were packed with Ganpati celebrations. It was day 5 of the Ganesha festival and many, many processions were water-bound to return Ganesha home. All the way down the highway, people lined up, dancing, drumming, and marching behind trucks, whatever to see Ganesha. We passed a little lake off the highway. I asked the rikshaw driver to stop so I could watch. The people were 10 deep around the edge of the water. It is truly an impressive event to see. I had one of those moments, like, "Wow, I am in India. I am really here and living in India" Surreal at times.....It is said that the more Ganeshas you lay your eyes on, the better your luck. I am due for some luck, so I am following Ganesha all over town. The biggest events are to come this weekend.
In all, this week is rolling right along. I am busy most every day with some school-related event, and have managed a long weekend off to spend with Andrea. We are both looking forward to being "normal" this weekend.......at least, as normal as we can be while sticking out like two American sore thumbs!!
On the way home after the celebration, the streets were packed with Ganpati celebrations. It was day 5 of the Ganesha festival and many, many processions were water-bound to return Ganesha home. All the way down the highway, people lined up, dancing, drumming, and marching behind trucks, whatever to see Ganesha. We passed a little lake off the highway. I asked the rikshaw driver to stop so I could watch. The people were 10 deep around the edge of the water. It is truly an impressive event to see. I had one of those moments, like, "Wow, I am in India. I am really here and living in India" Surreal at times.....It is said that the more Ganeshas you lay your eyes on, the better your luck. I am due for some luck, so I am following Ganesha all over town. The biggest events are to come this weekend.
In all, this week is rolling right along. I am busy most every day with some school-related event, and have managed a long weekend off to spend with Andrea. We are both looking forward to being "normal" this weekend.......at least, as normal as we can be while sticking out like two American sore thumbs!!
Friday, September 5, 2008
Teacher's Day
Today, September 5, is considered Teacher's Day in India. Apparently, the former president of India was a teacher and he declared this a holiday. We didn't have formal lectures today, instead, the students prepared a cultural celebration to honor the teachers. Upon arrival at the school, all students greeted the teachers with a welcoming "Happy Teacher's Day ma'am or sir!" As we entered the assembly hall, the students handed each teacher a handmade card honoring teachers and the impact we have, in some way or another, had on their lives. They also had a pooja outside the hall where each teacher was "blessed" with candles (called an arti) and kum kum (the red powder) was placed on our foreheads. It was all quite touching. The students also sort of bow on greeting as if to touch your feet. I was told that in paying respects to teachers and elders the feet are supposed to be touched out of respect, as if to say "you are the guru." I had noticed this happening while visiting several homes this week when a elder was introduced to other guests.
After several speakers the students presented songs, monologues or dialogues in various languages, dancing and music. I was honored separately as a special guest and asked to say a few words. I thanked the students for their warm hospitality and for making me feel so welcome at K.J. Somaiya College. Following the celebration, there was food for the teachers and the students who participated. As always the food was awesome, samosas and chutney, yum! I am a fan!
Aside from Teacher's Day, Ganpati, or the Ganesha Festival, is still in full swing. The submersions have started. I saw many people gathered around a lake yesterday as I was coming home from school. The parade to the "water" is quite an event itself with many people following the "vehicle" (be it a wagon, truck, whatever) that is carrying the idol. There is much drumming and singing. There is also a lot of hot pink powder being thrown around, many people are covered in it, and so is the road.....many more submersions will follow in the days to come.
In all, things are good. I can't believe I am coming up on a month already.....this coming week will be busy as the college is kicking off it's Golden Jubilee celebration. I have been asked to attend several events in this celebration, a book release, and something else....can't remember....!
Other things I have learned.....
1.) There are a lot of cows roaming right now, it is considered good karma to feed them some grass.
2.) The lines on the road mean nothing, absolutely nothing....someone was quoted as saying..."we don't know why the lines are here, the British left them!" Needless to say, driving is a mess....!
3.) There are a lot of other animals roaming too, pigs, donkeys, goats, and of course, dogs....and that is both on the highway and everywhere else too. There was a dog outside my classroom the other day...no one seemed concerned, so I wasn't either....??!
4.) No means nothing in India....no means, of course I will have more of whatever....there is no "NO!"
5.) Time is relative and no one is in a hurry, no one.....
6.) Indian hospitality is like no other...you want for nothing and the red carpet is always rolled out. The Indian people are extremely warm and friendly, and very, very proud!
After several speakers the students presented songs, monologues or dialogues in various languages, dancing and music. I was honored separately as a special guest and asked to say a few words. I thanked the students for their warm hospitality and for making me feel so welcome at K.J. Somaiya College. Following the celebration, there was food for the teachers and the students who participated. As always the food was awesome, samosas and chutney, yum! I am a fan!
Aside from Teacher's Day, Ganpati, or the Ganesha Festival, is still in full swing. The submersions have started. I saw many people gathered around a lake yesterday as I was coming home from school. The parade to the "water" is quite an event itself with many people following the "vehicle" (be it a wagon, truck, whatever) that is carrying the idol. There is much drumming and singing. There is also a lot of hot pink powder being thrown around, many people are covered in it, and so is the road.....many more submersions will follow in the days to come.
In all, things are good. I can't believe I am coming up on a month already.....this coming week will be busy as the college is kicking off it's Golden Jubilee celebration. I have been asked to attend several events in this celebration, a book release, and something else....can't remember....!
Other things I have learned.....
1.) There are a lot of cows roaming right now, it is considered good karma to feed them some grass.
2.) The lines on the road mean nothing, absolutely nothing....someone was quoted as saying..."we don't know why the lines are here, the British left them!" Needless to say, driving is a mess....!
3.) There are a lot of other animals roaming too, pigs, donkeys, goats, and of course, dogs....and that is both on the highway and everywhere else too. There was a dog outside my classroom the other day...no one seemed concerned, so I wasn't either....??!
4.) No means nothing in India....no means, of course I will have more of whatever....there is no "NO!"
5.) Time is relative and no one is in a hurry, no one.....
6.) Indian hospitality is like no other...you want for nothing and the red carpet is always rolled out. The Indian people are extremely warm and friendly, and very, very proud!
Wednesday, September 3, 2008
Ganesha Overload...
Where to begin, where to begin...how about this morning when my sleep was totally interuptted by a lot of drumming and carrying on outside my window....early....! I am all about Ganesha, until he wakes me up....fyi!
So, the past few days have sorta been a blur. I have been teaching and that is all going well. I was asked to stay after school and teach a few girls the "American" accent. They think it is sweet...they also think I am sweet as well....I have them all fooled. I am not sure how to teach an accent, so I am going to work on that....other than that, it is all about Ganesha.
Tuesday evening, Ganesha Eve, so to speak, Shyamala and her husband invited me to their friend's home for dinner. They live pretty close to my house. The meal was typical Gujarati...the state north of here. As I mentioned in an earlier blog, everyone is quick to identify food region and people region....none of which I can remember, but they keep telling me....bless them all. Dinner was fabulous, quite spicy and many, many types of sweets, (I am continually amazed at what they can do with chick pea flour and lentils around here) including kulfi, Indian ice-cream which rocks. Sort of nutty and minty and way, way creamy.....hard to describe.
After dinner, we all walked around the neighborhood to check out the "spots" where Ganesha would be arriving. They are sort of make shift temples that are elaborately decorated. People would be working all night long to get them ready for the arrival. We also stopped at a friend's office where they were creating an amazingly elaborate piece of artwork (for Ganesha) out of little beads of grain, all of which had been dyed many, many different colors. Each little tiny piece was hand glued onto a large sheet of paper in this sort of Ganesha battle scene....quite impressive. I guess they work all night and day for about 3-4 weeks straight....and when the festival is over, into the sea it goes as well.....
Early Wednesday morning, afer I was roused from my slumber by drumming, I came over to Shyamala's home around 11. They had just finished their pooja (offering) to Ganesha. The food had been "blessed" and bestowed upon him first, they we could take the food off of the altar to eat ourselves. Ganesha is fond of his sweets, so they say, a lot of sugar cane and other stuff like that....also, all dishes had 5 ingredients, not sure why and no one seemed to know, just the way it is. We then went down to the public pooja near their condo. There was much singing, praying and waving of candles in front of the altar, all very festive. I was encouraged to particiapate and I am not one to turn down any sort of "potential good karma," so what the heck.....the statue was quite large....and there are many, many more parading around the city awaiting their poojas to begin. Tonight, I am to go to Savita's home for her families pooja. (I really just like saying that word, fyi)!
Tomorrow morning, we wake early, head to the Arabian sea for the first submersions of the idols. The idols may be submersed as early as 1 1/2 days after the start of the fest, or the 3rd, 5th, and finally, 11th day of the fest. Some people choose to submerse early because of the vast amount of work involved in maintaining the pooja. All food must be freshly made every day, the sweets, flowers, tumeric (yellow root powder) and kum kum (red powder that you often see on the forehead) etc. Nothing, I mean nothing, can be leftover....so as you can imagine, after 11 days, that is a lot of work......the large public statues do remain all 11 days however.....
So as I sit here typing, I can here the drumming, dancing, and fireworks.....over and over and over again......and only 10 more days of it....sigh.....Ganesha.
So, the past few days have sorta been a blur. I have been teaching and that is all going well. I was asked to stay after school and teach a few girls the "American" accent. They think it is sweet...they also think I am sweet as well....I have them all fooled. I am not sure how to teach an accent, so I am going to work on that....other than that, it is all about Ganesha.
Tuesday evening, Ganesha Eve, so to speak, Shyamala and her husband invited me to their friend's home for dinner. They live pretty close to my house. The meal was typical Gujarati...the state north of here. As I mentioned in an earlier blog, everyone is quick to identify food region and people region....none of which I can remember, but they keep telling me....bless them all. Dinner was fabulous, quite spicy and many, many types of sweets, (I am continually amazed at what they can do with chick pea flour and lentils around here) including kulfi, Indian ice-cream which rocks. Sort of nutty and minty and way, way creamy.....hard to describe.
After dinner, we all walked around the neighborhood to check out the "spots" where Ganesha would be arriving. They are sort of make shift temples that are elaborately decorated. People would be working all night long to get them ready for the arrival. We also stopped at a friend's office where they were creating an amazingly elaborate piece of artwork (for Ganesha) out of little beads of grain, all of which had been dyed many, many different colors. Each little tiny piece was hand glued onto a large sheet of paper in this sort of Ganesha battle scene....quite impressive. I guess they work all night and day for about 3-4 weeks straight....and when the festival is over, into the sea it goes as well.....
Early Wednesday morning, afer I was roused from my slumber by drumming, I came over to Shyamala's home around 11. They had just finished their pooja (offering) to Ganesha. The food had been "blessed" and bestowed upon him first, they we could take the food off of the altar to eat ourselves. Ganesha is fond of his sweets, so they say, a lot of sugar cane and other stuff like that....also, all dishes had 5 ingredients, not sure why and no one seemed to know, just the way it is. We then went down to the public pooja near their condo. There was much singing, praying and waving of candles in front of the altar, all very festive. I was encouraged to particiapate and I am not one to turn down any sort of "potential good karma," so what the heck.....the statue was quite large....and there are many, many more parading around the city awaiting their poojas to begin. Tonight, I am to go to Savita's home for her families pooja. (I really just like saying that word, fyi)!
Tomorrow morning, we wake early, head to the Arabian sea for the first submersions of the idols. The idols may be submersed as early as 1 1/2 days after the start of the fest, or the 3rd, 5th, and finally, 11th day of the fest. Some people choose to submerse early because of the vast amount of work involved in maintaining the pooja. All food must be freshly made every day, the sweets, flowers, tumeric (yellow root powder) and kum kum (red powder that you often see on the forehead) etc. Nothing, I mean nothing, can be leftover....so as you can imagine, after 11 days, that is a lot of work......the large public statues do remain all 11 days however.....
So as I sit here typing, I can here the drumming, dancing, and fireworks.....over and over and over again......and only 10 more days of it....sigh.....Ganesha.
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