Special Thanks

I cannot possiblly close this blog without a lengthy list of special thanks....
-First and foremost, my family. Thanks for your never-ending love, support, and encouragement. I couldn't have done all of this without you.
-Renu, my mentor, best Indian friend, and most importantly my "Di-Di" (big sister). You are amazing. Thanks for the long lunches, shopping trips, and for taking me to the "British Library," which I am not sure exists?? I have declared myself Punjabi and have changed my last name to Bakshi. You are my partner in crime and I miss you so! Until we meet again...which will be sooner than later.
-Savita, thanks for tying my first saree. I haven't laughed that hard in some time. I appreciate our long drives, being part of your Ganesha puja, meeting your lovely family, and for keeping track of all my rickshaw drivers.
-The ladies of HUM, especially Shyamala and Aruna. Thanks for taking me in and making life so easy for me. I miss Mulund and all of our wonderful conversations. I am sorry our time was so short at the end. Shyamala, I am expecting to help you with the blockprinting expo in the US and next time, we are going to Prithvi Theater together. Good luck with all of your new grandchildren ladies!
-Shanthala, thanks for extending your wonderful home to me. I am glad I got to spend time with you at the end of our exchange. Walnut Ridge misses you! You made a lasting impression. Good luck planning the weddings and congrats to both of your sons. I will be there if I can, promise.
-The Students of Somaiya College, thanks for your never-ending respect and diligence, and for raising me to star status in Mumbai. To the drama students, thanks for an amazing show. Keep it going, you have a great start. You are all missed.
-My colleagues at Somaiya, thanks for making me one of your own. I have never felt so welcomed and at ease so quickly. You made me laugh and were so patient with all my many questions. Thanks to Dr. Verma and Dr. Joshi for allowing me the freedom to explore and bring some new ideas to Somaiya. And yes, Singh sir, you are my favorite, but don't tell Renu. :)
-To my friends back home, thanks for the support and for keeping all my affairs in order. Thanks to Veach for keeping me sane! I am happy to be home with you all again.
-To Bree and Andrea, wow, what to say....girls, we took India by storm. Bree, there will be a reunion in Goa, trust! I have never laughed so hard in my entire life. How can we forget Sourabh, Francis, Al, Chris and the Brits? And Varanasi?? Thankfully, we lived to tell the tale. Andrea, thanks for making sure I didn't miss the sunrise over Mt. Everest, for making sure all planes, trains and buses were caught on time, for keeping me sane in the early months, for Ganesha and pink powder everywhere, for Leopold's, for eating with the rats, getting caught in the monsoon, for visiting one too many forts, and temples, and SO much more. Start planning the reunion. I will see you both out west.
-Karin and Taiyaba, thanks for making Gujarat a blast and Mumbai too. I will never look at low-grade scotch, pineapple tang and cookies the same way! I am glad Peter and Thomas shared that special moment with us. I will also never forget the horror of 11/26 and returning to Mumbai with you both. Keep Mumbai alive ladies, and Taiyaba, I will be at the book release!
-Fulbright Organizaton, thanks for giving me this opportunity and changing my life forever.
-The residents of Mulund West, thanks for making me mildly famous and for embracing me. It was the kindness of strangers that got me through!
-To the staff at Walnut Ridge, Tim and Sharon, thanks for supporting me endlessly. I know my absence was tough, but you always encouraged me to shine brightly in India. Sharon, thanks for being a special friend to Shanthala and for sharing India with me! To Radde and Dr. Hill, thanks for picking up my slack. I know it was a lot of work, and I am not sure how to repay you! Special thanks to Levenstein, Wirthman, Skiles (K & D), Gantner, Lawrence, Watson, and everone else who made Shanthala feel at home. I realize I owe a lot of favors....!
-Nitesh, thanks for your kindness, your energy, your impulsiveness, for making me part of your life. You showed me what I deserve. Thanks for showing me your Mumbai.

Re-entry

At our initial orientation in Washington DC, the Fulbright staff kept referring to our coming home as "re-entry." At the time, I had to laugh as I pictured us all crashing through the atmosphere and ending up somewhere in the Atlantic Ocean. Now that I have experienced "re-entry," I realize that they aren't too far off.
I didn't want to come home, that is no secret. I am home now, and leaving Mumbai was perhaps the hardest thing I have ever had to do. The last two days were tough. I had to say goodbye to people that had become a surrogate family. An Indian friend is a friend for life. I truly, firmly believe that now. There were many tears, and long goodbyes. I almost missed my plane because I took my sweet time getting to the airport knowing full-well what Mumbai traffic is like.
Collectively, it seems that all of the Indian Fulbrighters were reluctant to leave. We all said, we need a year. After 5 months, you have just completely settled in and created a social network. All the day to day frustrations of commuting, grocery shopping, and all that have been resolved, and then poof, it is time to go. It is almost cruel! But, I never imagined it would go as such. I thought I would be home by Christmas and more than ready to do just that. So not the case.
I keep thinking about what the astrologer said at Choki Dhani, "my work in India is not done, and that I am a lucky person." He was right on both counts. I am not sure what my "work" in India consists of, but I will be back. It is out of the realm of thought to think I could meet such amazing people and never return. And, I am lucky. Lucky in the sense that I had the opportunity to embrace such an amazing culture, to meet such incredible people, to travel, travel and travel some more, to watch a city rise up after after horrible terrorist attacks, to be part of the Fulbright family, and to find the strength to overcome any obstacle that was placed in front of me.
Coming home has been hard. It took me a week to write this because the thought of leaving still brings tears to my eyes. Though I am happy to be back in my own home surrounded by the people I love most in the world, I have struggled to find a place for all these amazing memories. I am blessed to have seen so much. I still use my well-worn 20 or so Hindi words whenever possible, even if no one understands me. I am searching for good chai. When I am ready to eat Indian food again, I will search the city for the perfect "joint." I have surrounded myself with Hindu idols and all things auspicious to bring me much prosperity. So, with that, I close this chapter of my life. The memories remain and the friendships are forever. If I seem a little distant I apologize, just give me some time because in my heart, I am still in Mumbai.

The Final Month

Many apologies for the late entry. My final month in Mumbai has been action-packed. There is a lot to say, so I am opting for a "stream of conscience" style of writing.....
-The Somaiya Drama Club put up their show on Dec. 23rd. We had a packed house and the students made me so proud. They played to a packed house and were received quite warmly.
-I had LASIK surgery and had a busted tooth, both of which were handled fabulously. The healthcare in India is superb, and so much cheaper than here in the US. I was gonna stick around for extensive plastic surgery, but alas, was out of time and money due to much shopping!
-I headed north of Mumbai to Nashik, Sula Wineries, for a wonderful weekend out of the city. The wines were amazing and the drive there was beautiful. The landscape was breathtaking. It reminded so much of Gujarat. We were surrounded by both the Western Ghats and the Deccan Plateau. I couldn't get enough of the view. As I have said before, some of the best sights are just outside of Mumbai.
-My final days at Somaiya College were quite tear-filled and full of celebration. The students held their annual "Cultural Celebration." It is always a pleasure to spend time with students outside of the classroom. There was dancing, singing, instrumental, mehendi, and rangoli competitions. All were incredible, what a talented group of young people. The week ended with the annual College Day which included our drama production and many more cultural activities. We also had two lunches during the final week, mine thanking the staff, and theirs thanking me!
-I spent time with the students and staff of Somaiya College as they participated in a youth against terrorism rally in Dadar. Colleges from all over Mumbai were invited to participate. We left from college and boarded the public train to Mantunga. From there we walked to Shivaji Park in Dadar. I was overwhelmed at the number of young people there to hear the governor and several family members of fallen police officers speak. The effort was in response to the terror attacks on 11/26. Mumbai is making a huge effort to raise awareness and unity amongst it's citizens. I was moved at the spirit of the students. It is the young people who need to unite and carry forth this message of solidarity.
-I opted to spend Christmas in Mumbai. I had a lovely "Charlie Brown" Christmas tree, thank you Nitesh, and spent part of the day at Mt. Mary Church in Bandra. The rest of the day was spent shopping and drinking peach margaritas (a global Christams, truly). It was great seeing all the festive lights, nativity scenes and variations of Santa Clause.
-I also decided to spend the New Year in Mumbai as well. The celebrations were very low key due to the recent attacks, but the new year was brought in with many, many fireworks and good friends. I figured this was the best way to start 2009. It seemed auspicious, at least to me!
-Fellow Fulbrighter Matt stopped over in Mumbai on his way back to the States. We met in Colaba and celebrated well into the night as only Americans can do. I was happy to see Colaba exploding with energy and tourists in the wake of the recent attacks.
-Shanthala, my exchange partner, arrived back in Mumbai on Dec. 23. I was able to spend two afternoons with her and friends saying goodbye and catching up. Each day gets a little harder to leave.
-My final days are being spent meeting with the many friends I have come to love so much, eating the Indian food I am sure I will not be able to find here in the States, and visiting the many places that have become so much a part of my daily routine...oh, and packing the 5000 lbs of Indian "stuff" that I have to get home! I did my best to help the economy!
-Sadly, my days are numbered.....

Somaiya College- Magazine Article #2- "Amchi Mumbai"

Leaving No Stone Unturned
To try and capture my experience in India in a simple article almost seems a bit unfair. How does one capture the essence of the most gracious people in the world? How does one describe the food from ALL corners of the country? How does one describe the rich cultural display found on virtually every street corner? How does one leave this country and remain unchanged? The answers are simple, you can’t. India is a place to be experienced, not read about.
I will begin with the people. It is said that when you make a friend in India, you make a friend for life. I agree. There are no people like the Indian people. From the moment I stepped off the plane, I have made friendships that will last a lifetime. Every door has been widely opened, every family’s arms extended, every heart welcoming of a virtual stranger. I cannot say it enough, the people are what makes this country so special.
Next, the culture of India has captured my heart. I have been fortunate, blessed even, to have been in India during the height of festival season. Of course, it has been said that the festival season in India starts in January and ends in December. From what I have seen thus far, that may indeed be the case. From the time I arrived, I have participated in festivities surrounding Independence Day, Raksha Bandhan, Krishna Janmashtami, Ganesh Chaturthi, Teacher’s Day, Dussehra, Navratri and Durga Puja, Gandhi Jayanti, Diwali, and the forthcoming Christmas holiday, just to name a few. Witnessing the festivities surrounding Ganesh Chaturthi would have to be one of the most memorable moments of my stay here. Never in my life have I witnessed such piety and devotion. From the ceremony of bringing the idol home, to the many pujas, and finally the immersions, Ganesha will always have a place in my soul and in my home.
Lastly, the places of India. No country on earth can boast such diversity, such variation, and such splendor as the states of India. I never imagined I would see so much of this country in such a short time. From the backwaters of Kerala, the pristine beaches of Goa, the deserts of Rajasthan, the Himalayas of Darjeeling, the Taj Mahal of Agra, and the sacred Ganges of Varanasi, I have left no stone unturned. Each region celebrating its own cuisine, fashion, language, and culture, all in the name of one country, India.
The astrologer I visited in Chokhi Dhani said I was lucky. I agree. I am lucky to have been a part of this great country and more specifically, this great city, Mumbai. The astrologer also said that my work here was not done, and that I would be back. He was right. I will be back. So, as I prepare to go, I know that my absence is temporary. Mumbai, with all your chaos, all your load-shedding, all your traffic, and all your glitz and glamour, you have left a permanent mark on my heart, and my soul. Amchi Mumbai.

Somaiya College- Magazine Article and Warm Regards

Foray Into The Unknown
When the news came back in March that I would be heading to India for my Fulbright exchange, I was elated. India, so exotic and wonderful. I felt lucky to have been selected. As time passed, I came to learn that I would be teaching at K.J. Somaiya College in Ghatkopar. So many questions raced through my mind. Where would I live? How would I survive so far from home? Would I “fit in” and make friends? Would the students like me? I was overwhelmed and scared. All my questions quickly found their own answers.
Almost immediately, Mrs. Shanthala Kasarkod, my exchange partner, and I began exchanging emails. In a few months, we would swap lives completely. She had as many questions and concerns as I did. We helped each other understand what to expect in our host cities and more importantly, in our host schools. We finally had the pleasure of meeting in August at the Fulbright orientation. I found a friend in Mrs. Kasarkod, and we assured each other that this would indeed be the experience of a lifetime.
As the plane touched ground in Mumbai on August 14, my heart pounded and my palms were sweating. This was the BIG moment. I was wrapped in fear. My pre-arranged ride was not available to pick me up. Panic set in. I dialed the only number I had handy and the voice on the other end would come to be one I will never forget.
Shortly thereafter, my life would change. To my rescue came my mentors, Mrs. Renu Bakshi and Mrs. Savita Moghe. Seeing their smiling faces for the first time brought a sigh of relief. This was my first introduction to K. J. Somaiya College and I had no idea that this initial meeting would define the next five months.
I was quickly whisked away into the depths of a city that would be my new home with two amazing women that would be part of my new family. Upon arriving at K.J. Somaiya College, I was overwhelmed with the Indian hospitality that makes this country so phenomenal. The staff and students at Somaiya College greeted me like a long lost friend, not a stranger they had never met. This welcome would continue without fail for the duration of my stay.
There are no words to describe the experience that I have had at Somaiya College. My colleagues are amongst the best and the brightest. Their never ending patience and laughter has comforted me every day. I know no strangers here, and cannot thank them enough. The students, in all their awe and amazement of “the American,” have taught me far more than I have taught them. They are dedicated to their education, highly respectful, talented, and are truly the future of this great country.
Sadly, my time is drawing to a close. If I could stay forever, I would. However, I cannot. But, I take with me friendships that will last a lifetime, an arsenal of twenty or so well-used Hindi words, and memories that will never be surpassed. Thank you K.J. Somaiya College for allowing me to become part of the fabric that makes you so rich. The pleasure has been all mine.

Decidedly Indian

My days here are numbered, sadly. It is no secret that I am not happy about it. It is no secret that I do not want to leave. It is also no secret that I completely love India, and specifically, Mumbai. But, my mom and my teaching contract insist that I must return, so reluctantly, I shall, but trust me, it WILL be at the last possible minute.
With that, the last week or so has been quite busy with many activities. Last Wed. evening, I rejoined with Shanthala's HUM group. The topic of discussion that evening was my adventures here in India, and also the differences in Indian/American education. Easy topics for discussion since I have a lot to say about both! I can't thank this wonderful group of ladies enough. They have absolutely showered me with kindness and hospitality since the moment I stepped off the plane. I couldn't have done it without you all. I especially thank Shyamala for getting me on my feet and showing me around, Aruna for keeping me sane and connected to Mulund, and to Grija, any chance for non-veg. is a treat! I am not sure how I can repay any of you.
Aside from the HUM meeting, Somaiya College is in full "cutural forum" mode. There are many programs in place right now to commemorate the silver anniversary of the college and to recognize outstanding students. The English department has put up several literary competitions with great success. I am pleased to have been part of the poetry and story-boarding instruction. I am hoping that my fellow Fulbright friend Taiyaba (novelist) will hold a writing workshop in the coming week.
Last Thursday, I met my fellow Fulbright friends in Juhu for a night at Pritvhi Theatre. This small, sort of experimental theatre is located in Juhu and what a total treat. The play, "Me, Kash & Cruise" was a look at Bombay, a city that continually rises from "the dead." A city that is always "dealing" with its "interesting" politics, numerous terror attacks, riots, etc. The play was timely given the events of the past few weeks. The acting was superb and after having lived here for a few months, I could relate to much of the material. We also had wonderful Italian food and sangria (DelItaliano) in Juhu, a great night in all!
What else? I broke a tooth this past weekend and had my first adventure with the Indian medical/hospital system. I must say, I was completely impressed. I was able to get into the emergency dental clinic at Hiranandani Hospital in Powai immediately. I only had to wait for a few minutes and the problem was diagnosed quite quickly. I am able to have the tooth repaired and re-capped later this week for a fraction of American prices, and frankly, I was far more impressed with the level of service. I completely understand the growing boom for these "medical vacations" people are scheduling in India. Thanks Dr. Ria for your humor, sorry I squirmed so much and thanks Nitesh for making my tooth your priority!
This week, I am attending a wedding on Tuesday. A colleague of mine from the English Dept. is getting married. I am wearing a sari, and am quite excited about it. I will have more to say about all of this in my next post. In all, I am cherishing EVERY last second I have in this amazing city.

Fulbright Family in Ahmedabad, Gujarat

Last Wednesday, November 26, I left for Gujarat to meet up with my friends and colleagues for the Fulbright conference. The purpose of our gathering was to discuss how to make India a study abroad destination for US scholars and to share our own experiences. The weekend turned out to be so much more. Just after my plane touched down in Ahmedabad, hell was broke loose in Colaba, Mumbai. Just prior to leaving for the airport, I had spent time at the USIEF office and a few other places in Colaba. It seemed that each stop I made in Colaba was later to be in the line of fire for some heinous terrorist activity. The feeling was surreal.
Unaware of the activities that were about to take place in Mumbai, the Fulbrighters reunited. We were housed at the Indian Institute of Management, one of the best universities in India, think Harvard of India. I was happy to see my teaching colleagues, some of which I had not seen since Delhi in August, save for Bree and Andrea. Also in our presence were student researchers and visiting professors from many US institutions. We all met for dinner and talked for hours about this amazing experience. It seems we all share a love for his country .
Immediately following dinner, the calls/texts started flowing. Mumbai was under attack. I, along with two other student researchers living in Mumbai, banded together and tried to make sense of it all. It was a horrible feeling. We watched in horror as all the places/people we had come to know/love were in jeopardy. The rest of that night was spent glued to the television or on the phone with friends/family. I contacted my US family, and of course, my Mumbai family as well. Thankfully, everyone was accounted for. What we didn't know was that the nightmare was just beginning.
After little sleep, we headed to the first of our Fulbright sessions. We were met by a representative from the embassy who briefed us on the attacks and what we needed to do to remain safe. We were stunned that Mumbai was still paralyzed. At this point, there were many theories, most of which pointed to the demand for American and UK citizens.
We made it through the day, mostly unable to concentrate, but happy to have a diversion as we waited, along with the rest of the world. The Fulbright sessions went late, but we were off to celebrate Thanksgiving together and we had a lot to be thankful for! The dinner was held at the open-air, rooftop restaurant Le Meredian in Ahmedabad. The place was absolutely beautiful and the food was amazing. The did have turkey for us. It was quite small and not exactly what we were used to, but it is the thought that counts. It was also the first Thanksgiving that I have had any dish made with paneer and gulab jammon....but, I think this will be a new tradition for me! After dinner, we all returned to our rooms to watch the coverage and to continue to assure our family/friends that we were safe as they celebrated Thanksgiving back home.
Friday brought little relief as the Mumbai nightmare continued. We completed our Fulbright work in the late afternoon and spent the rest of the day sightseeing. We headed to the Dada Hari Wav, or stepwells, built in 1499 by a woman of Sultan Begara's harem. After that, we headed to Sabarmati Ashram. Founded by Gandhi in 1915, he used this particular place as his headquarters. It was from here in 1930 that he set out on the famous Salt March in protest. The artifacts in the museum were fascinating and given the state of India at the moment, the message was quite necessary. We also hit the Law Garden market where everyone picked up some of the famous "mirror-work" fabric that is so well-known in Gujarat. Then back to the university to spend time socializing. The Mumbai Fulbrighters, myself included, were scheduled to head back very early in the morning. We were so unsure of what we were headed back to. It was a scary feeling. As we landed in Mumbai, we stuck together. All heading in different directions, we kept in touch until we had all reached our respective corners of the city. Mumbai felt different that morning, perhaps because it was insanely early, perhaps because there was a dark cloud overhead. I made it home and didn't stray far that day. In the evening, I went to dinner and was happy to feel secure in my neighborhood amongst my friends. Slowly, Mumbai will recover. This city has a spirit like no other!
Special thanks to Peter, Taiyaba, Karin, and Thomas for a bootleg cookie and whiskey adventure. I am glad we can put our Fulbright intelligence to good use. Taiyaba, I can't wait to read the novel, and I will be at the book release! Also to Bree, any time spent together is awesome. See you over the holiday.
I also thank Dr. Patzer, Dr. Donna, and so many of the other Fulbrighter Scholars that shared their amazing work and succcess stories. You have inspired me to keep pushing ahead.
Also, I say a prayer for Mumbai. So many people lost their lives in a completely horrific manner. This is a moment I will never forget in a country that means so much. Amen.