Andrea, Denise (her sister), and I left Mumbai Friday afternoon and headed to Jaipur in Rajasthan (north India). After a three hour delay, we finally touched down about 9pm. We decided to go ahead a hire a car to make the three hour drive to Pushkar. The road was empty, save for a few large trucks, and it was a little bit chilly outside, which marks the first time I have been remotely cold since I arrived in India, unless you count the shower which is NEVER hot. Anyway, after passing through Anjar we started to wind up into the hills, Nag Pahar (Snake Mountain) to be exact. As we approached the town of Pushkar around midnight, we were met with a barricade and a couple of random young men. Apparently Pushkar was "closed!" Huh?? But alas, 15 rupees later and we "got in!" Go figure. It just got more bizarre as we went. I will try my best to relay this experience.
Let me start with a little history. Ok, so here is what I do know..... according to Hindu mythology, Brahma dropped a lotus flower and the town of Pushkar floated to the surface. Pushkar is a popular Hindu pilgrimage location. The town is home to one of the few Brahma temples in the world. The town surrounds a small "magical" lake on the edge of the desert. There is no booze, meat, eggs, or kissing allowed, though I did see someone drinking a beer. That is the backstory. In my opinion, there is no other place like it on earth. Back to my adventure....
We had used our trusty "Lonely Planet" guide to call some hotels from the road. We had secured a room at the ever-famous Pink Floyd Cafe & Hotel (yes, each room is named after a different album, "Dark Side of the Moon" for us, please) and also at the Bharatpur Palace. Upon arrival, we decided that Pink Floyd was too far away and found the "Palace." Our room was on the roof (really, it was, and looked somewhat like an orphanage with metal beds lined up along the wall) overlooking the lake and the ghats. There was also a temple next door and it seemed that the Hare Krishnas were celebrating all night. We crashed, they didn't.
As we woke the next morning, we were lured out on the roof by music. What we saw was intense. The entire lake is surrounded by small temple-like buildings and there were so many people on the ghats, bathing in the lake water, cows meandering around, and people just streaming to this lake in mass. I cannot do this site justice, I really can't. You had to see it. It was truly the first time I felt like I was in some sort of National Geographic special.
We got dressed and headed out to eat. We found an amzing little joint, only three tables, and had the best chai and sugar-lemon pancakes I have ever tasted. From there, we just roamed. The whole place was SO intense. There were many "babas" or sort of holy men walking around with dread locks, women with very large nose piercings, young children with kohl rimmed eyes (not sure the significance of that), snake charmers (yep, a cobra), the most sacred cows that I have seen in one place, and a handful of Europeans. I found the whole thing so completely overwhelming that I spent the rest of the day shopping for the most amazing silver jewelry ever. We ended up staying in Pushkar again that night. The aura there was just too surreal to leave.
Reluctantly, we got up super-early the next morning and had to leave. We had hired a car the night before and decided to head to Bundi. Collectively, we thought we would head to a non-tourist town to see another side of India. Bundi is a small town with a large castle looming just above on the side of a mountain. We arrived about 1pm and found a haveli, or guesthouse, near the town center. A haveli is a lot like staying at a friend's house as you are in constant contact with the family. We spent the rest of the day exploring. During the late afternoon, we decided to make the trek up to the palace to explore. The palace is overrun with monkeys, so we were advised to take a stick to sort of shew them away....uh ok....oh, and we were advised to be back before the sun went down as the sky aroubd the palace would fill with bats.....uh ok, again! Sure enough, we were outnumbered by monkeys 20 to 1, especially by one very large monkey who would not let us come back down the trail....and it was getting dark, and the bats were indeed flooding the sky. National Geographic moment #2. We did make it down without any sort of physical injury, but I am still a little mentally scarred by the monkey conspiracy that I am certain was brewing.
The next morning (Monday) we left Bundi and headed to Jaipur. We decided to take the bus instead of hiring a car. We made it to the bus station and hopped on for the ride of our lives. There aren't so many American girls on a rural Indian bus, fyi. It was an adventure, but what a way to experience India. National Geographic moment #3....as we rolled through the desert, we saw camels pulling carts, elephants pulling carts, goat herders, children strapped to their mother's backs as oxen were being tended to. Each mile told a story all it's own. I had to keep reminding myself that I wasn't watching a television show, nor was I on some simulated Disneyland ride. This was real India, real life, and I was watching it all around me. So intense.
We finally pulled in Jaipur, or the "pink city" as it is known, and spent the rest of the day touring around there. It is now midnight and we are leaving to catch the 2am overnight train to Agra to see the Taj Mahal at last. Today is also the first day of Diwali, or the festival of lights. The city sparkles and fireworks are exploding all around us. The embassy has warned us to use precaution while traveling as this is a volatile time. With that, Happy Diwali to all....I will update you on the next leg of this amazing journey!
Monday, October 27, 2008
Thursday, October 23, 2008
Where India Exhales....Kerala!
After barely recovering from the Goa trip, I picked up Sharon, my asst. principal from Walnut Ridge and off we went to the beautiful state of Kerala, Ft. Cochin, to be exact. Kerala is where India exhales, I have decided. After living in Mumbai these past few months, I have gotten used to the insane traffic, dust, smog, countless running dogs, and people stacked on top of people....to head to Kerala, one trades the dogs for goats, cars for boats, smog for vast palm groves, and enjoys a little room to breathe! Much like Goa, Kerala reflects the architecture of by-gone settlers, in this case, Dutch, Jewish, Chinese, as well as Portuguese. We stayed primarily in Ft. Cochi in central Kerala.
Day one, we hired a rikshaw and saw all the various temples and churches. We also visited the Dutch Palace, Jewish and Dutch burial sites, saw the Chinese Fishing Nets, shopped and ate some amazing seafood.
On day two, we had to venture about an hour away to cruise along Kerala's famous backwaters, and I am SO glad we did. We boarded a houseboat with our new friends from Israel, Italy and France. When I say houseboat, I mean a wooden gondola that is covered in a sort of wicker thatch.....quite rustic and surprisingly comfortable. The boat was "sailed" using very long poles by one man in the front and one in the back, think Venice gondolas! Kerala is called the "Venice of India," a well-deserved name! We started our cruise in the morning, lazily roaming through the palm thickets, watching for the beautiful Kingfisher bird, and trying to name the various exotic trees and flowers. Our first stop was on a little island where they were crushing mussel shells to make lime powder, later to be used in cement, etc. Our second stop was on another little island to watch a rope making demonstration. The laborers were using coconut husks and weaving them into rope to be used for boats and scaffolding. Lunch was a true south Indian treat. Our meal was served on a banana leaf, quite traditional, and included several samples of Kerala's famous tastes, mostly banana, coconut and rice. Too hot for Sharon, but just hot enough for me! The rest of the six-hour cruise was spent drifiting along the backwaters chatting with our new-found friends and trying not to fall into a most soothing sleep!
Day three was spent in the spa for the ever-famous Kerala massage, and also some last minute shopping. For me, it was spices. We visited several spice markets and I became addicted to saffron tea! I also now realize why spices are so expensive after watching each ginger root being carefully, methodically inspected by hand, and I have a better idea of how the pepper makes in all the way across the world into the shaker! It was all really interesting, and the smells in the market were overwhelming!
On the evening of day three we headed back to Mumbai. Upon arrival, we learned that the city had been under a curfew for most of the three days we were gone. There was some political tension that was causing quite a dangerous scene (not terrorist in nature, thankfully) around the city. Many buses were being pelted with rocks and fires were started. Schools were closed and the city was paralyzed......and I was obliviously floating along the backwaters.....probably best I guess. The politician who was responsible for this "unrest" was arrested, so the city appears to be back to normal, I hope...!
Tonight Sharon is leaving from the international airport as Andrea will be arriving at the domestic airport. Tomorrow, Andrea (from Calcutta), her sister and I will be heading to Rajasthan and onwards to Darjeeling. Of course, we will see the Taj Mahal (finally) and hope to trek in Darjeeling. Mt. Everest, here I come.....HA! Hey, if you are gonna dream, dream big!
Meanwhile, time is rolling along here and I am not happy about it! I have so fallen in love with India. I am already trying to figure out how to extend my stay or find time to return. The whole of Mumbai is gearing up for Diwali, the festival of lights. Everyone is buying gifts, hanging lights, filling oil lamps and baking sweets. It reminds me of Christmas time, except it is 5 million degrees here! So, with that I am off to pack for yet another amazing adventure. Somedays, I wonder whose life I am living right now. I am truly blessed. Happy Diwali to all and I will report later from Rajasthan!
Day one, we hired a rikshaw and saw all the various temples and churches. We also visited the Dutch Palace, Jewish and Dutch burial sites, saw the Chinese Fishing Nets, shopped and ate some amazing seafood.
On day two, we had to venture about an hour away to cruise along Kerala's famous backwaters, and I am SO glad we did. We boarded a houseboat with our new friends from Israel, Italy and France. When I say houseboat, I mean a wooden gondola that is covered in a sort of wicker thatch.....quite rustic and surprisingly comfortable. The boat was "sailed" using very long poles by one man in the front and one in the back, think Venice gondolas! Kerala is called the "Venice of India," a well-deserved name! We started our cruise in the morning, lazily roaming through the palm thickets, watching for the beautiful Kingfisher bird, and trying to name the various exotic trees and flowers. Our first stop was on a little island where they were crushing mussel shells to make lime powder, later to be used in cement, etc. Our second stop was on another little island to watch a rope making demonstration. The laborers were using coconut husks and weaving them into rope to be used for boats and scaffolding. Lunch was a true south Indian treat. Our meal was served on a banana leaf, quite traditional, and included several samples of Kerala's famous tastes, mostly banana, coconut and rice. Too hot for Sharon, but just hot enough for me! The rest of the six-hour cruise was spent drifiting along the backwaters chatting with our new-found friends and trying not to fall into a most soothing sleep!
Day three was spent in the spa for the ever-famous Kerala massage, and also some last minute shopping. For me, it was spices. We visited several spice markets and I became addicted to saffron tea! I also now realize why spices are so expensive after watching each ginger root being carefully, methodically inspected by hand, and I have a better idea of how the pepper makes in all the way across the world into the shaker! It was all really interesting, and the smells in the market were overwhelming!
On the evening of day three we headed back to Mumbai. Upon arrival, we learned that the city had been under a curfew for most of the three days we were gone. There was some political tension that was causing quite a dangerous scene (not terrorist in nature, thankfully) around the city. Many buses were being pelted with rocks and fires were started. Schools were closed and the city was paralyzed......and I was obliviously floating along the backwaters.....probably best I guess. The politician who was responsible for this "unrest" was arrested, so the city appears to be back to normal, I hope...!
Tonight Sharon is leaving from the international airport as Andrea will be arriving at the domestic airport. Tomorrow, Andrea (from Calcutta), her sister and I will be heading to Rajasthan and onwards to Darjeeling. Of course, we will see the Taj Mahal (finally) and hope to trek in Darjeeling. Mt. Everest, here I come.....HA! Hey, if you are gonna dream, dream big!
Meanwhile, time is rolling along here and I am not happy about it! I have so fallen in love with India. I am already trying to figure out how to extend my stay or find time to return. The whole of Mumbai is gearing up for Diwali, the festival of lights. Everyone is buying gifts, hanging lights, filling oil lamps and baking sweets. It reminds me of Christmas time, except it is 5 million degrees here! So, with that I am off to pack for yet another amazing adventure. Somedays, I wonder whose life I am living right now. I am truly blessed. Happy Diwali to all and I will report later from Rajasthan!
Wednesday, October 15, 2008
Go, Go, Goa....Blame It On the Feni
Notice! This may be my last blog! I am going to sell my house, car, computer, everything, except most of my shoes, oh, and my big rings too, and live in a beach hut in GOA! So, if I do not return home in December, don't worry, just come and join me! That pretty much sums up my weekend in Goa!
How do I even begin to describe Goa?? Goa is India meets Portugal, which makes sense as it was originally a Portuguese settlement. The population there is largely Christian, and that shows in all the beatifully decorated crosses that fill every nook and cranny of the entire area. The beaches are wide and full of little bars, cafes, etc., and we managed to find them all! The weekend with Bree started by checking into our amazing hotel/resort, Neelam's The Grand. We then had to find out what this "feni" was all about. We headed out to the closest hot spot to see what we could find and we found quite a lot....if I remember correctly! Feni is the local Goan drink. It is distilled several months a year with cashews and the rest of the time with coconut. It is a clear liquor and it is STRONG. We dubbed our vacation in terms of BF or AF, meaning before feni, or after feni....you get the picture! At the first stop we pulled up to a table, ordered this much talked about feni and then we heard..."are you ladies sure you are ready for that?" (British accent) We clearly weren't ready, but we made instant friends with some lovely "mates" from Liverpool. We were then joined by several people from Scotland, and an Indian from London....and then some more people from a small town in England....it was all quite a global start to the weekend. We then went with all our new found friends to enjoy the nightlife at Tito's/Mambo's. We ended up dancing then entire night away and met still some more people from India, natives of Goa back for a visit, to be exact. And so the weekend went......
Wherever Bree and I went, we had friends. We especially thank our Goan friends from Pune for showing us ALL the nooks and crannies and for making sure we had a blast. We trekked along the beach, shopped, took a ferry ride, danced our hearts out, ate SO much amazing food, masala prawns, kingfish, pomfret....and LAUGHED every minute......incredible....! It was truly an amazing adventure and a much needed break from these big cities of Mumbai and Delhi.
It was also during this weekend break that I truly fell in love with India. The Fulbright folks told us we would be overwhelmed first, be homesick second, be frustrated third, and then fall in love just as it was all going to end, and they were right. I do love this country and I know I will be back again, no doubt. It is my hope that everyone takes the time to visit India, if nothing else, to experience the people. I can't say enough about Indian hospitality.
A special thanks to Bree who made this weekend one of the most memorable of my lifetime. Yes, to the second weekend in November to where ever you want to travel, and yes to next summer, I am down. You are an amazing person, and thanks for making me laugh. I needed it.
Also special thanks to the "Brits," Sam, John and Jordan, too funny, thanks for teaching me the difference between "a mate" and "a bloke," I think I have it now, and sorry about your horrible cab experience.
Thanks to Deep, we know never to put three on a scooter now unless we have bribe money. Those of you reading can put this story together. Thankfully, it ended with just a little money out of pocket....!
My warmest heartfelt thanks, and I CANNOT thank you enough, to our best friends, new "brothers", and fantastic tour guides....you truly spoiled us....Francis, Chris, Alvin, and Sourabh....we will all meet again! Thanks for the one million laughs and stories that I will cherish forever.
So, off to another adventure. I pick up Sharon, my asst. principal, at the airport tonight, show her around Mumbai, funny, how I am the expert now, go figure. She and I will then head to Cochin, Kerala on Sunday. Until next time...take care, and stay away from the FENI! You've been warned.
How do I even begin to describe Goa?? Goa is India meets Portugal, which makes sense as it was originally a Portuguese settlement. The population there is largely Christian, and that shows in all the beatifully decorated crosses that fill every nook and cranny of the entire area. The beaches are wide and full of little bars, cafes, etc., and we managed to find them all! The weekend with Bree started by checking into our amazing hotel/resort, Neelam's The Grand. We then had to find out what this "feni" was all about. We headed out to the closest hot spot to see what we could find and we found quite a lot....if I remember correctly! Feni is the local Goan drink. It is distilled several months a year with cashews and the rest of the time with coconut. It is a clear liquor and it is STRONG. We dubbed our vacation in terms of BF or AF, meaning before feni, or after feni....you get the picture! At the first stop we pulled up to a table, ordered this much talked about feni and then we heard..."are you ladies sure you are ready for that?" (British accent) We clearly weren't ready, but we made instant friends with some lovely "mates" from Liverpool. We were then joined by several people from Scotland, and an Indian from London....and then some more people from a small town in England....it was all quite a global start to the weekend. We then went with all our new found friends to enjoy the nightlife at Tito's/Mambo's. We ended up dancing then entire night away and met still some more people from India, natives of Goa back for a visit, to be exact. And so the weekend went......
Wherever Bree and I went, we had friends. We especially thank our Goan friends from Pune for showing us ALL the nooks and crannies and for making sure we had a blast. We trekked along the beach, shopped, took a ferry ride, danced our hearts out, ate SO much amazing food, masala prawns, kingfish, pomfret....and LAUGHED every minute......incredible....! It was truly an amazing adventure and a much needed break from these big cities of Mumbai and Delhi.
It was also during this weekend break that I truly fell in love with India. The Fulbright folks told us we would be overwhelmed first, be homesick second, be frustrated third, and then fall in love just as it was all going to end, and they were right. I do love this country and I know I will be back again, no doubt. It is my hope that everyone takes the time to visit India, if nothing else, to experience the people. I can't say enough about Indian hospitality.
A special thanks to Bree who made this weekend one of the most memorable of my lifetime. Yes, to the second weekend in November to where ever you want to travel, and yes to next summer, I am down. You are an amazing person, and thanks for making me laugh. I needed it.
Also special thanks to the "Brits," Sam, John and Jordan, too funny, thanks for teaching me the difference between "a mate" and "a bloke," I think I have it now, and sorry about your horrible cab experience.
Thanks to Deep, we know never to put three on a scooter now unless we have bribe money. Those of you reading can put this story together. Thankfully, it ended with just a little money out of pocket....!
My warmest heartfelt thanks, and I CANNOT thank you enough, to our best friends, new "brothers", and fantastic tour guides....you truly spoiled us....Francis, Chris, Alvin, and Sourabh....we will all meet again! Thanks for the one million laughs and stories that I will cherish forever.
So, off to another adventure. I pick up Sharon, my asst. principal, at the airport tonight, show her around Mumbai, funny, how I am the expert now, go figure. She and I will then head to Cochin, Kerala on Sunday. Until next time...take care, and stay away from the FENI! You've been warned.
Thursday, October 9, 2008
Dussehra and Two-Month Indiaversary
Today is, yep, you guessed it, another holiday in India. Another day off for me, and also the eve of my two-month Indiaversary, as I am calling it! Today is Dussehra, or "day 10," following the nine-night festival of Navratri. Dussehra falls on the 10th day of the waxing moon during this Hindu month of Ashvin. According to legend, after praying to Durga (warrior goddess) for 9 days, Rama then killed the 10-headed demon Ravana on this, the 10th day. This is the ultimate celebration for the triumph of good over evil. From what I understand, the festival is celebrated all over India, but is the most important festival for the Bengalis. I am also told that different families celebrate this day differently, pujas, some fast, some feast, etc. My neighborhood is decorated in a festive manner. There are puja garlands/flowers EVERYWHERE! They are on rikshaws, cars, motorcyles, and around doorways. As you know, the puja flowers are one of my favorite sights in India. I even bought several garlands because, well, because I just love them!
I, however, think I am going to celebrate Dussehra with a nap, as I haven't been sleeping at all the past two nights...thank you very much malaria prevention meds! Perhaps when I awake, I will explore!
Today also marks the eve of my leaving C-bus two months ago. In some ways, it seems like yesterday, in other ways, it seems like years ago! I, of course, am going to celebrate this milestone in Goa this weekend with Bree. There will be much more about that later. During my two-month stay, I have learned a lot, seem a lot and grown a lot. I have also picked up a few sayings along the way......
"They say"..................................................."We say"
What is your good name? ......................What is your name?
What is your program? ..........................What is your schedule?
Scheme/offer ..........................................Discount or special financing
That's what!............................................. That's right or No way!
It is there ..............................................We have that to offer or it is available.
Take, Have, Eat, Come, Go (one word commands).... We tend to use the whole sentence, mostly
Tell me.................................................... What's up or what is the news?
Do the needful........................................ Take care of any outstanding task
Chalo (Hindi).......................................... Let's go or let's leave
Chai for ALL tea ....................................We recognize tea and chai differently
Make a move .........................................Let's go or let's leave
Namaste (has several purposes)......... Hello, greetings (for the most part)
How are you finding...?.......................... How do you like...??
And so many more that escape me right now....I have also picked up on the ever-present hand "flip," sort of a flat plam, splayed figure gesture, used to sort of make a point, or to indicate finality, in a sense.....
In all, an incredible two months thus far. I CANNOT say enough about the warmth of the Indian people and their hospitality. I am, on a daily basis, thankful for the kindness of friends, and strangers, that have made this journey a wonderful experience. And on that note, we start month three!
I, however, think I am going to celebrate Dussehra with a nap, as I haven't been sleeping at all the past two nights...thank you very much malaria prevention meds! Perhaps when I awake, I will explore!
Today also marks the eve of my leaving C-bus two months ago. In some ways, it seems like yesterday, in other ways, it seems like years ago! I, of course, am going to celebrate this milestone in Goa this weekend with Bree. There will be much more about that later. During my two-month stay, I have learned a lot, seem a lot and grown a lot. I have also picked up a few sayings along the way......
"They say"..................................................."We say"
What is your good name? ......................What is your name?
What is your program? ..........................What is your schedule?
Scheme/offer ..........................................Discount or special financing
That's what!............................................. That's right or No way!
It is there ..............................................We have that to offer or it is available.
Take, Have, Eat, Come, Go (one word commands).... We tend to use the whole sentence, mostly
Tell me.................................................... What's up or what is the news?
Do the needful........................................ Take care of any outstanding task
Chalo (Hindi).......................................... Let's go or let's leave
Chai for ALL tea ....................................We recognize tea and chai differently
Make a move .........................................Let's go or let's leave
Namaste (has several purposes)......... Hello, greetings (for the most part)
How are you finding...?.......................... How do you like...??
And so many more that escape me right now....I have also picked up on the ever-present hand "flip," sort of a flat plam, splayed figure gesture, used to sort of make a point, or to indicate finality, in a sense.....
In all, an incredible two months thus far. I CANNOT say enough about the warmth of the Indian people and their hospitality. I am, on a daily basis, thankful for the kindness of friends, and strangers, that have made this journey a wonderful experience. And on that note, we start month three!
Sunday, October 5, 2008
The Incredible Indian Food....
I stopped by McDonald's after leaving the gym today, I know, what is the point, right?? I have only been to McD's twice since my arrival here, and today, I just wanted something quick. That aside, it got me thinking about the food in India. I have mentioned that I love it, maybe mentioned a dish or two, but I really haven't spent any time talking about it. McDonald's is, after all, McDonald's, anywhere you go in the world. In India, however, there are no beef burgers, obviously, but there are chicken sandwiches, even the Big Mac is chicken based, veggie burgers, and McAloo Tikki burgers, which is really a potato patty on a bun dressed like a burger. And, the fountain diet Coke NEVER works....sigh...that is one thing I def. miss about home, fountain diet coke....! Anyway, back to the food. Indians are fond of spice, the more spice the better, as many of you know already. Even at McD's they have "Indianized" the food. The chicken sandwich doesn't have plain 'ol American mayo, they have "kicked it up a notch" with a sort of minty/coriander mayo...takes a second to register in the mouth, but it really is quite tasty....even the balsalmic salad dressing I found at the grocery store was extra spicy, I mean, hot! I wasn't expecting that on the first bite.
As I have metioned before, one of the questions I get most often is "how are you managing your food?" Some people are concerned that I don't cook at all, which I really don't, and others are more concerned with the level of spice. I also get asked a lot about what I eat and when. To not have eaten isn't an option either.
Ok, too the point. When I first arrived here, I kinda went nuts over the food. I absolutely love Indian food and I was trying to taste everything all at once. Then, I realized I had 4+ months to taste it all, so I needed to slow down....as Indian food is quite high in calories. It tastes so darn good because it is full of ghee (clarified butter) and oil. And wouldn't you know, all the food looks so innocent with the bright colors and veggies galore....but no, not the case. The vast majority of the restaurants here are vegetarian. Every restaurant you see will have that quite clearly stated on the sign outside, "veg. or non-veg" as the case may be. I am non-veg, but most of the people I spend time with are veg. I have eaten some meat here, not much, with Renu, she is Punjabi, which I have learned sort of equates with non-veg. There seems to be more more of a non-veg trend in the north, but that is not the rule completely. My neighbor, Aruna, also ordered me some AMAZING fish from a "joint" the other night. I am not sure what kind of fish, but it was darn hot! And tasty.
For the most part, I eat a lot of dosas, which are sort of an Indian burrito. The outer "shell" is made of a rice paste and is poured onto a skillet. They are paper thin, like a crepe, and have a variety of fillings, mostly masala (which I learned simply means spice) potato, onion, etc. There truly are 100 kinds of dosas. They are seen as more of a snack or an appetizer. You tear them apart with your fingers and dip them in chutney (delish), if you so choose. For the main meal, there are 100 different varieties of "gravy." Some of my favorites are palak (spinach)paneer, paneer laseez, mutter (peas) paneer. These are mostly vegetable gravy (some do have chicken or mutton) with paneer (which is cheese, sort of in blocks and has a consistency like ricotta) and heavy, heavy on the masala! The gravies are eaten with warm roti, chappatis, or naan (all Indian breads), again, tearing the bread apart and dipping. Maybe after all that is consumed, some rice would be ordered, dal rice is common (with lentils), biryani rice (with veggies mixed in), curd rice (with plain yogurt) and many, many more. For dessert, some gulab jamon (kind of like doughnut holes soaked in syrup) kulfi, (amazing indian ice-cream) or kulfi falooda (ice-cream with vermicelli noodles, no, really, and sometimes rose syrup)! There are also many types of Indian "fast-food," that are sold everywhere by street vendors, at the movies, etc. Pav bhaji is sort of an Indian staple. It is tomato based, and has finely, finely chopped onions, capsicum, cauliflower, and some other veggies sort of simmered together with again, a whole lot of masala, and served on warm buns, think "sloppy joe!" It is also LOADED with butter. Also, samosas (deep fried dough filled with potatoes), and pani puri, another type of bread filled with potatoes, garbanzo beans, onions, etc. They are bite-sized and you "pop" the whole thing in your mouth. Mine always break and fall apart everywhere, go figure.
Since coming to India, I have a new appreciation for garbanzo beans, they aren't just for hummus turns out, capsicum (I didn't even know what that was), little tiny pear-shaped fruits called naka, and a few other things. I have never eaten so many vegetables in my life. So, as you can see, one has to choose one's meals wisely. I am looking forward to heading south, as I hear the foods are much different! It is my goal to learn to make one or two, maybe three true Indian dishes before I leave so I can entertain my friends/family back home....In the meantime, yes, my Indian friends, I can handle the spice. I know you are always shocked, but this American can take it! And I see what you mean now, American food, for the most part, is really bland....and I am sorry you have to endure that when you go abroad. But, aren't we at least a little better than the UK??
As I have metioned before, one of the questions I get most often is "how are you managing your food?" Some people are concerned that I don't cook at all, which I really don't, and others are more concerned with the level of spice. I also get asked a lot about what I eat and when. To not have eaten isn't an option either.
Ok, too the point. When I first arrived here, I kinda went nuts over the food. I absolutely love Indian food and I was trying to taste everything all at once. Then, I realized I had 4+ months to taste it all, so I needed to slow down....as Indian food is quite high in calories. It tastes so darn good because it is full of ghee (clarified butter) and oil. And wouldn't you know, all the food looks so innocent with the bright colors and veggies galore....but no, not the case. The vast majority of the restaurants here are vegetarian. Every restaurant you see will have that quite clearly stated on the sign outside, "veg. or non-veg" as the case may be. I am non-veg, but most of the people I spend time with are veg. I have eaten some meat here, not much, with Renu, she is Punjabi, which I have learned sort of equates with non-veg. There seems to be more more of a non-veg trend in the north, but that is not the rule completely. My neighbor, Aruna, also ordered me some AMAZING fish from a "joint" the other night. I am not sure what kind of fish, but it was darn hot! And tasty.
For the most part, I eat a lot of dosas, which are sort of an Indian burrito. The outer "shell" is made of a rice paste and is poured onto a skillet. They are paper thin, like a crepe, and have a variety of fillings, mostly masala (which I learned simply means spice) potato, onion, etc. There truly are 100 kinds of dosas. They are seen as more of a snack or an appetizer. You tear them apart with your fingers and dip them in chutney (delish), if you so choose. For the main meal, there are 100 different varieties of "gravy." Some of my favorites are palak (spinach)paneer, paneer laseez, mutter (peas) paneer. These are mostly vegetable gravy (some do have chicken or mutton) with paneer (which is cheese, sort of in blocks and has a consistency like ricotta) and heavy, heavy on the masala! The gravies are eaten with warm roti, chappatis, or naan (all Indian breads), again, tearing the bread apart and dipping. Maybe after all that is consumed, some rice would be ordered, dal rice is common (with lentils), biryani rice (with veggies mixed in), curd rice (with plain yogurt) and many, many more. For dessert, some gulab jamon (kind of like doughnut holes soaked in syrup) kulfi, (amazing indian ice-cream) or kulfi falooda (ice-cream with vermicelli noodles, no, really, and sometimes rose syrup)! There are also many types of Indian "fast-food," that are sold everywhere by street vendors, at the movies, etc. Pav bhaji is sort of an Indian staple. It is tomato based, and has finely, finely chopped onions, capsicum, cauliflower, and some other veggies sort of simmered together with again, a whole lot of masala, and served on warm buns, think "sloppy joe!" It is also LOADED with butter. Also, samosas (deep fried dough filled with potatoes), and pani puri, another type of bread filled with potatoes, garbanzo beans, onions, etc. They are bite-sized and you "pop" the whole thing in your mouth. Mine always break and fall apart everywhere, go figure.
Since coming to India, I have a new appreciation for garbanzo beans, they aren't just for hummus turns out, capsicum (I didn't even know what that was), little tiny pear-shaped fruits called naka, and a few other things. I have never eaten so many vegetables in my life. So, as you can see, one has to choose one's meals wisely. I am looking forward to heading south, as I hear the foods are much different! It is my goal to learn to make one or two, maybe three true Indian dishes before I leave so I can entertain my friends/family back home....In the meantime, yes, my Indian friends, I can handle the spice. I know you are always shocked, but this American can take it! And I see what you mean now, American food, for the most part, is really bland....and I am sorry you have to endure that when you go abroad. But, aren't we at least a little better than the UK??
Thursday, October 2, 2008
Happy Birthday Gandhi and 6 Week Check-In
Today, the country of India is celebrating Gandhi's birthday as a national holiday. All schools and government agencies were closed, so I took advantage of the day off. Most of you know, I had a little bit of a trying week. I remember during the Fulbright orientation that they mentioned these sort of phases an exchangee goes through, kind of like any new relationship....stage one, get to know India, stage two, become completely overwhelmed by India, phase three, well, I can't remember them all....but you get the idea...anyway, it seems just as I get completely adjusted, it will be time to leave. At any rate, India and I had a few getting to know each other issues this week, but we seem to be ok now. We aren't breaking up just yet. More importantly, as any good American woman, or any other nationality for that matter, I decided to soothe myself with another trip to Hakim's Aalim for a rock star haircut. That is how I spent Gandhi's Birthday....! Travel tip #427-don't take a rikshaw all the way to Bandra from Mulund, geez...I need a full body massage, a chiropractor, and a putty knife to scrape the dust off....I will spring for a cab in he future and you all should do the same if you are ever in that situation, fyi.
Let's see, what else? Navratri is still in full swing. I haven't seen too much "action" yet, but as I was leaving my building today, I was informed that we will be having a little throw down on Saturday night right here at the building. That will be awesome, sort of like my own Navratri party. I was told to wear a sari...I don't think that will happen, though I will be in a sari before I leave, no worries, and yes, there will be pictures! I am truly captivated by the sari. It has to be one of the most sexy, yet sophisticated garments in the world. It is amazing what you can do with 6 meters (or is it yards?? No one really understands metrics) of beautifully woven, brightly colored fabric. There is an art to wrapping a sari well and different regions wrap them differently. That is just an aside.
Bree and I finalized out travel plans for Goa. We will be leaving next Friday, the 10th. I am looking forward to heading a little more south in India and soaking up some rays on the beach. Just after I return from Goa, Sharon, my asst. principal, and friend, arrives from the US. I will show her around Mumbai and then I think she and I will head even further south to Cochin in Kerala. Kerala is really a "must see" state in India. It is the more lush, tropical region of the country and is known for it's amazing backwaters. I have also come to learn that the food in southern India is incredible, a little more of a rice base and a lot more bananas and coconut. Just after that, I head north with Andrea.....so, at week six, it appears that weeks 7, 8 and 9 will be flying by.
In all, everything is going well. I have also, for those of you that know me well, affirmed my place as an expert shopper here in Mumbai. That was confirmed tonight when Aruna, my neighbor, called to ask me where a certain shopping center was in the Colaba area. What can I say, a reputation is a reputation. I have gone international!
More to come later. Please enjoy fall for me and if anyone feels inclined, head over to my house and rake some leaves....Veach would appreciate that! Peace.
One last mention, please check out my friend Andrea's website at www.andreacermanski.com, she is an amzing artist and everyone should see her work! Yes, a plug, and I need a painting for over my bed Ange! Just sayin'!
Let's see, what else? Navratri is still in full swing. I haven't seen too much "action" yet, but as I was leaving my building today, I was informed that we will be having a little throw down on Saturday night right here at the building. That will be awesome, sort of like my own Navratri party. I was told to wear a sari...I don't think that will happen, though I will be in a sari before I leave, no worries, and yes, there will be pictures! I am truly captivated by the sari. It has to be one of the most sexy, yet sophisticated garments in the world. It is amazing what you can do with 6 meters (or is it yards?? No one really understands metrics) of beautifully woven, brightly colored fabric. There is an art to wrapping a sari well and different regions wrap them differently. That is just an aside.
Bree and I finalized out travel plans for Goa. We will be leaving next Friday, the 10th. I am looking forward to heading a little more south in India and soaking up some rays on the beach. Just after I return from Goa, Sharon, my asst. principal, and friend, arrives from the US. I will show her around Mumbai and then I think she and I will head even further south to Cochin in Kerala. Kerala is really a "must see" state in India. It is the more lush, tropical region of the country and is known for it's amazing backwaters. I have also come to learn that the food in southern India is incredible, a little more of a rice base and a lot more bananas and coconut. Just after that, I head north with Andrea.....so, at week six, it appears that weeks 7, 8 and 9 will be flying by.
In all, everything is going well. I have also, for those of you that know me well, affirmed my place as an expert shopper here in Mumbai. That was confirmed tonight when Aruna, my neighbor, called to ask me where a certain shopping center was in the Colaba area. What can I say, a reputation is a reputation. I have gone international!
More to come later. Please enjoy fall for me and if anyone feels inclined, head over to my house and rake some leaves....Veach would appreciate that! Peace.
One last mention, please check out my friend Andrea's website at www.andreacermanski.com, she is an amzing artist and everyone should see her work! Yes, a plug, and I need a painting for over my bed Ange! Just sayin'!
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)
.JPG)
